Eighty-four watches were nominated for this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and the top prize went to an independent watchmaker instead of a big house.
A jury chaired by Wei Koh, working with an Academy of more than 1,000 members, handed out 20 prizes in Geneva on Saturday.
Price: Not published
Where to Buy: Rexhep Rexhepi partner boutiques (Geneva, Lausanne, London, Dubai, Singapore)
What did the winning watch get right?
Thinness. The platinum case measures 38.8 mm across and 9.7 mm thick, and Rexhepi says hitting that height forced him to build the chronograph into the movement instead of stacking it on top.
The calibre is new and hand-wound, with a column wheel, a lateral clutch, a flyback and a minute counter that jumps rather than creeps. It runs at 3 Hz with 72 hours of reserve. Up front, the storm blue grand feu enamel dial is made in-house.
Did the big houses go home empty-handed?
No. Audemars Piguet, Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard each won two prizes, and Patek Philippe took the Special Jury Prize for an exhibition rather than a watch.
Which other independents won?
Konstantin Chaykin won Audacity, Dominique Renaud won Horological Revelation with his Pulse60, and Otsuka Lotec’s No.8 took the Petite Aiguille.
Who won every prize?
- Rexhep Rexhepi, Chronograph Flyback (“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix)
- Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 (Iconic Watch Prize)
- Patek Philippe, Watch Art Grand Exhibition (Special Jury Prize)
- Konstantin Chaykin, ThinKing Mystery (Audacity Prize)
- Ferdinand Berthoud, Naissance d’une Montre 3 (Chronometry Prize)
- Dominique Renaud, Pulse60 Titanium Black (Horological Revelation Prize)
- Blancpain, Grande Double Sonnerie (Mechanical Exception Watch Prize)
- Cleguer, Inspiration One (Complication Watch Prize)
- Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux (Chronograph Watch Prize)
- Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre FB 2TV (Tourbillon Watch Prize)
- Grand Seiko, Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver (Sports Watch Prize)
- Audemars Piguet, 150 Heritage (Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize)
- Daniel Roth, Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton (Essential Watch Prize)
- Chopard, L.U.C 1860 (Time Only Watch Prize)
- Chopard, Mystery Nut (Jewelry Watch Prize)
- Louis Vuitton, Tambour Taiko Arty Automata (Artistic Crafts Watch Prize)
- Piaget, Swinging Pebble (Gemset Watch Prize)
- Otsuka Lotec, No.8 (“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize)
- SpaceOne, SpaceOne X Baltic – Seconde Majeure (Challenge Watch Prize)
- La Vallée, Cosmo (Mechanical Clock Prize)
The nominated watches stay on show at Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire until November 15. The winners then move to the Watches of Switzerland boutique in Knightsbridge, London, from November 18 to 23.
For a hand-wound column-wheel chronograph you can order today, Sea-Gull’s 1963 runs the brand’s own ST1901 movement behind a display caseback.
Price: $279
Where to Buy: Amazon
Price: Not published
Where to Buy: Rexhep Rexhepi partner boutiques (Geneva, Lausanne, London, Dubai, Singapore)
The GPHG is the one night a year the watch industry scores itself in public. This year, an independent won it outright.
