Environmental friendliness and sustainability are pervasive topic these days and “green” is a term that is being applied in countless areas. How about your computer? Recompute has developed what they call the “eco friendly computer workstation.” And it’s made of cardboard. Blasphemy! you scream? Brilliant! you squeal? Either way, it’s an interesting concept—check out this video for a run though. The case is made from multiple layers of food-grade, die-cut, C-flute corrugated cardboard, laminated together with waterproof non-toxic white glue, then treated with a non-toxic UL tested flame retardant. The intent is for the hollow spaces in the corrugated cardboard to dissipate the heat generated by the internal electronics.  Linux OS, AMD Athlon II Quad-core 3.0 GHz processor, 500Gb hard drive and 4Gb RAM, among other specs. 2011 model starts at $599.95 USD and depending on options, up to $999.95. Recompute gives a fourteen day trial with a full refund if not satisfied.  I’m a Mac guy, but I have to admit that this is intriguing—anyone else?

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, News

Tagged: Desktop, environmentally friendly, Green, PC

Is your PC made of cardboard? This one is. originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on November 8, 2011 at 1:00 pm.

In 1992 Nintendo won a lawsuit against Atari and was able to lock-out third-party software vendors from providing games for its gaming systems unless they purchased a key (license). Since then the Holy Grail of gaming, smartphone and now computer system companies was to bring to market systems where they had control of every third-party device and program for that systems. By control, I mean, they get paid an upfront licensing fee, a per-unit sold payment or both.

The market has shifted to the point where all of the available gaming consoles operate that way. Today, if you buy an Xbox 360, Sony PS3, Sony PSP, Nintendo Wii, etc. you’re only going to be able to purchase software and hardware from licensed developers.

Compelling customers to purchase all products and services related to the base product from the original manufacturer is not unique to the computing industry. Through various means everyone from razor manufacturers to auto makers utilize the practice to varying degrees. As companies have discovered they can lock out competition for those add-on sales through technology and the courts it has grown more and more prevalent.

At times the consumer may benefit, at least initially, from this practice. Many manufacturers will price the base item lower than they normally would. Of course, they expect to make more money once the purchaser begins making additional purchases.

In addition, there are some that will argue that the original manufacturer is also the best possible entity for checking add-on products for stability and compatibility. That’s potentially true if that’s really being done. Unfortunately, there’s more than enough evidence to indicate that there really isn’t a lot of stability testing going on before items are released.

So, let’s talk about the downsides; Recently, Sony’s ineptitude at standard network security highlighted a huge issue. If the only place you can purchase software or receive necessary services goes down for any reason the device you have may become little more than a paper weight. What happens to iOS customers if Apple’s App Store or iTunes is brought down for any extended period?

Many of Sony’s PlayStation Network customers recently went without online play for weeks after Sony was unable or unwilling to secure its network. Many of Sony’s customers were angry about the outage and Sony’s lack of care with their personal information; some even brought a class-action lawsuit.

Well, if you can’t hire quality systems security professionals the next best thing is to hire good lawyers. Sony has decided to change their PlayStation Network License to disallow any further class action lawsuits. That type of clause isn’t all that unusual, many companies would rather have all complaints brought against them be heard by arbitrators. Let’s just say that companies don’t lose very often when the Judge owes his income to that company. But, when a company changes their terms and demands all existing customers either accept the new terms or stop using the service it becomes what we lawyer types call a contract of adhesion. That’s a contract where one side has all the bargaining power and the only choice the other side has is to agree or leave.

If you’re purchasing a piece of software and you don’t like the license terms you generally have the right to return the software. While you may be unhappy you really haven’t been hurt financially. But, can that be said for someone who has invested hundreds of dollars in a PlayStation system? If you don’t agree to Sony’s new rules you’re now unable to participate in the service that very well may have been the reason you purchased the system and because the system is closed there’s no other place to procure those types of services.

Okay, so that doesn’t bother you. There are too many class action lawsuits and the network outage wasn’t Sony’s fault anyway…how should they have known there were hackers out there? Let’s walk down the path of closed systems a bit further. As I wrote earlier the primary reason for these types of systems is to increase profits to the company. One of the ways a company makes money is by extending the sales life of products.

During the 1990s Microsoft was found to have acted in an anti-competitive way towards several of its competitors most notably a web browser company called Netscape. Microsoft allegedly engaged in unfair technical hurdles, bundling and sales tactics to slow and block Netscape (and others) from selling their products meant to run on Windows. With a closed system it becomes much easier. If a company comes up with the next big thing to run on your system you either delay approval of the technology until your competing product is improved or don’t approve it at all. They can also force companies to remove features from their product to make them less desirable (Apple recently forced all eBook apps to remove the built-in links to their book stores).

Finally, the tin-hat crowd out there claims an even bigger risk. Corporations can use their control over the system to censor apps and content they find objectionable or promote content they believe to be in their best interest. Few would complain if the capability is used to block child pornography, but what if it is utilized to promote a political agenda that’s favorable to the corporation? Or censor something they find to be unfavorable (Apple recently removed an App that highlighted serious problems with one of their manufacturing partners, Foxconn Technology Group).

The market leader in smartphone OS is currently Google’s Android which is an open system. Google does provide its own market, but competitive stores are also available, including one by Amazon. It’s also relatively easy to install apps from other sources (side loading). Unfortunately, Google really doesn’t have a competitive answer to MacOS or Windows. Chrome OS is available, but the early versions leave much to be desired. Google will have to find a way to provide a platform that works well throughout the computing spectrum or find itself forced out of the operating system market.

I like choice. I like being able to buy my software from a wide variety of vendors. I like that a couple of people working in their garage can still come up with a revolutionary piece of software and be able to distribute it without the current market leader having the right of review and refusal. I believe things are headed in the wrong direction for the consumer and I hope others begin to see the problems we’re facing and make smart choices going forward.

Filed in categories: Android related, Articles, iPhone, iPad, iPod related, Windows Mobile related

Tagged: Android, Desktop, ecosystem, iOS, Mobile, operating system, Windows

Technology Ecosystems – Good for Profits, Bad for Consumers originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on September 22, 2011 at 11:00 am.

Regular readers of The Gadgeteer are familiar with the fact that I’m a Mac person. My main computer for the past several years has been an iMac. I upgraded last year to the 27″ version and it has been my work horse until early last month when it switched roles and became my TV. When I was offered a long term loan opportunity of a Lenovo ThinkCentre A70z All in One PC, I was happy to accept because I’ve always preferred to use a desktop for my writing and picture editing instead of a laptop. I find a larger display and a full sized keyboard to be more comfortable for extended periods of time. Let’s check it out.

The first thing I noticed when I opened the box was the reusable bag that held the main unit and the fact that everything was either recyclable or reusable. Way to go Lenovo!

Hardware Specs

Processor: 2.93 GHz Intel E7500 Core 2 Duo
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
RAM: 2GB (max 4GB)
Display: 19 in (diagonal) Widescreen LCD, 1440 x 900, TFT active matrix
Graphics: Intel GMA X4500
Hard Drive: 320GB Serial ATA-300 7200 rpm
DVD-Writer
Webcam: 1.3 megapixel camera
WiFi: 802.11b/g/n
Ports: USB 6 ports, Ethernet 10Base-T/100Base-TX/1000Base-T, Mini-phone stereo 3.5 mm, PCI Express Mini Card
Dimensions & Weight: 2.9 in x 14 in x 18.6 in, 17.6 lbs

Included Software: Adobe Flash Player , Adobe Reader , Lenovo Online Data Backup , Microsoft Office 2007 (60 days trial) , Norton Internet Security 2009 (30 days subscription) , Roxio Creator Business Edition , Roxio My DVD , Skype , ThinkVantage Power Manager , ThinkVantage Product Recovery , ThinkVantage System Update , ThinkVantage Toolbox

The ThinkCentre is definitely not a flashy computer. Although it has a modern all in one design, some might say that its Black casing borders on boring. But once you remember that this model is being marketed as a small business computer and not a home PC, the style becomes a non issue.

The front of the computer has one button (for power) and a long speaker grill along the bottom edge. Next to the power button is a hard drive LED that blinks during data access. Above the display is a 1.3mp webcam and a microphone.

The back of the computer has a very handy carrying handle at the top. Since the whole computer weighs less than 20 lbs, it’s really easy to relocate the A70z whenever it’s needed.

All of the connections are also located on the back of the computer. Since this is an all in one device, only one power connection is needed, which is very nice. There are also 3 USB ports, an Ethernet port, Kensington lock slot and what I think is a serial port? Do people even use those these days? Unfortunately there’s no secondary display output so that you can connect a 2nd monitor…

Here is a side view that shows you the heavy chrome stand, which can be easily adjusted to modify the angle of the display/ computer.   The A70z is compatible with standard VESA wall mounts, so it’s possible to move it completely off your desk and on to a wall or a swing arm.

You will also notice that there are 3 more USB ports, a microphone jack, headphone jack and buttons to adjust the display brightness.

On the opposite side you will find the CD/DVD drive.

Setting up the Lenovo ThinkCentre A70z is super easy. Just take it out of the box, connect the wired keyboard, the mouse, power cord and press the power button. Within minutes, you’re ready to work. I was a bit disappointed to see that the included keyboard and mouse were the wired variety. This draws attention to the fact that there is no good way to route cables with this computer. The first thing I would do after purchasing this PC is to ditch the included keyboard and mouse for a wireless combo.

I should also mention that the A70z does not have Bluetooth built in… Of course, it’s easy to add a dongle later, but I don’t understand why something that simple wasn’t included in the first place.

The computer comes with Windows 7 Professional installed and has been my first experience using this version of the Windows operating system. These days it really doesn’t matter that much which operating system that I use since I do almost all of my work through a browser. That said, I find Windows to be significantly more annoying to use than the Mac OS. I get tired of being asked all of the “are you sure you want to do this?” questions. And for some reason it seems that with Windows Vista and now Windows 7, that the hard drive is almost constantly being accessed. This causes noise that grates on my nerves after awhile.

The A70z is less noisy than most tower computers, but it’s still much louder than my iMac. The internal fan can be heard at all times and of course the constant hard drive access can also be heard. This is something to be aware of if you’re as picky about noise as I am. Of course, if you will be using this computer in an office environment, it might not be noticeable at all.

Setting aside my complaints about the noise, this computer is snappy and performed all the normal tasks that I threw at it. Keeping in mind that it’s not going to be a gaming or multimedia / home theater computer, it does a really good job at everyday work. That said, the display is nice and the speakers do an adequate job.

Boot up time is especially impressive at about 27 seconds from a power off state to the login screen.

I was also happy to see that the ThinkCentre isn’t packed with the typical new computer bloatware that most computers seem to ship with these days. Yes, it does have a trial version of Microsoft Office, Norton Virus Protection and some ThinkCentre dashboard tools, but it’s still pretty light on the ‘junk’.

I like the solid build of the A70z, but do wish they would have included a wireless keyboard / mouse combo and Bluetooth. But at a starting price of about $500, I think this system would be a decent choice for a small business owner or a student on a budget. The all in one design is great for small spaces while remaining a solid system that Lenovo is known for. The Lenovo ThinkCentre A70z is available at CDW and PC Connection.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Reviews

Tagged: Desktop

Lenovo ThinkCentre A70z All in One PC Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on May 16, 2010 at 2:25 pm.

The Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 (hereafter referred to as “Natural Mouse”) would make any elephant nervous!!  Like any good computer professional, over the years I have gone through a boatload of mouse products, from touchpads to trackballs, wireless mice, corded mice, travel mice, Bluetooth mice, laser mice, and even a few pointing sticks.  And I have discovered that all mice are not created equal.  And when it comes to this honking beast of a mouse, it packs a huge list of features!

I have had the unfortunate experience of getting carpal tunnel syndrome because of the way that I used my keyboard and mouse.  So I know from experience how important it is to have a mouse and keyboard that works with your body instead of against it.  And I believe I have finally found the perfect mouse for me when it comes to daily use.  I won’t be taking this beast on the road with me because I’d have to take another suitcase, but for my daily use in the office I can’t see me going back to any of the other mice I have.  I keep referring to how big this thing is, so let’s start off by looking at it compared to some of my other favorite mice so you can see what I am talking about.

(from L to R) the Natural Mouse, Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse 2.0, and Microsoft Wireless Notebook Presenter Mouse 8000

When I took this mouse out of the box I said to myself, “Holy smokes Batman, this thing is huge.  You’ve got to be kidding me.”  And for those of you wondering, yes, I did actually invoke Batman’s name.  It is over 2.5 inches tall and towers above other mice, especially my Microsoft Wireless Notebook Presenter Mouse 8000 (which is fantastic by the way).  When I used the Natural Mouse for the first time I had a terrible time getting it to do what I wanted.  I read this on other reviews and wondered what everyone’s problem was… I mean… how hard can it be to use a mouse, right?  Then I found out.  Look at this picture showing how it sits on the desk and the angle that the top of the mouse is compared to the desk surface:

Because the round surface area on the bottom of the mouse isn’t directly beneath the top area of the mouse which is offset just a little bit, when I tried moving the mouse in a simple left to right motion on my screen, the cursor moved at an angle.  My ‘natural’ motion that I have used for years didn’t quite work with this ‘natural’ mouse.  I was frustrated.  But I stuck with it to see if I would get used to it.  And I must confess that it took me several days to get used to it.  I think perhaps the average person wouldn’t give it as much time as I did… they would pack it back up in the box.  But because I stuck with it, I must now confess that I won’t be going back to any other mice.  It is THAT comfortable.  Here are some more pictures from different angles:

Let me mention the features of this device which brings large trunked mammals to their knees.  (Again with an analogy to its size, but trust me, it’s huge.)

The mouse wheel allows 4-way scrolling by allowing you to push the wheel to the left and right in additional to the traditional roll up and down.  You can also push the roller wheel down for a mouse click (customizable).  The 2 buttons on the left side of the mouse are customizable as well and can be accessed using your thumb.  For example, one of those buttons comes programmed as the ‘back’ button in your browser.  I can’t express how wonderful this is for my browsing experience!  The indentation below those 2 buttons is where your thumb will naturally relax.  Of course it has the 2 standard programmable mouse buttons on either side of the scroll wheel.  Located behind the scroll wheel is the wonderful feature of a lighted battery status indicator that lets you know when your batteries need to be replaced.

Why the heck hasn’t someone does this before?  Genius.  And while I am on the subject of battery, let me say that Microsoft pitches this mouse as having “advanced Microsoft technologies” that prolong battery life.  I have no idea what those technologies might be, but they work.  I have been using this mouse on a set of rechargeable batteries for over a month and have yet to change them.  I have never gone that long before on one set of batteries, so I am tickled.  You insert the batteries by opening a small door on the b0ttom:

Let me mention a few more of the outstanding features.  First of all, there is a magnifier feature that you can assign to any of the programmable buttons on the mouse.  When you press the assigned button, a magnifier pops up on your screen that enables you to magnify anything from 200% up to 1,600%.  I love this feature because I am a web designer so I am constantly zooming in on parts of my Photoshop documents.  This ease at which this feature works is wonderful.  You can even customize how you want to use the magnifier.  I have taken a few screenshots to show you what I mean.  You can use it in ‘lens’ mode which pops up a rectangle shaped box that moves with your mouse.  You can use it ‘full screen’ which zooms the entire screen.  And you can use what is called ‘docked’ mode which pops up a rectangle area across the top of your screen that is the magnifier for any place your mouse goes:

Above is the ‘lens’ mode.

Above is the ‘docked’ mode.

The best feature of this mouse is that the only part of my hand that touches the desk when using it is that part of the outside of my hand that is below my pinky.  My hand just sits naturally (again, the name) at an angle off to the side and my wrist never touches the desk.  Your hand might get hurt though when it falls from that height off the top of the mouse. (sorry, couldn’t help myself.)

It isn’t all peaches and cream though.  Because of the way that the top of the mouse sits, left-handers are out of luck.  I am actually a left-hander myself when I write, so I know how lefties have to live in a ‘righty-centric world’.  Sorry guys.  Also, the programmable buttons that are next to the thumb are a bit too far back on the mouse, so using them is awkward.  And it will take you some time to get used to moving the cursor on the screen.

If you can overlook those things, this mouse is for you.  It is the most comfortable mouse I have ever used and I think Microsoft knocked one out of the park with this one.  But before I go, did I mention it’s big??

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear, Reviews

Tagged: Desktop, Mouse

Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on March 29, 2010 at 11:40 am.

When I was a kid, I had a portable multi-band radio. I can remember plugging an
earphone (this was before earbuds) into it at night and slowing scanning up and
down the frequencies, trying to tune in foreign stations. I would always get
excited when I would tune to a station and hear people talking in a language
that I didn’t understand. Multi-band radios are still being sold these days, but
I have an alternative for you… The USB Internet Radio Jukebox from Aluratek is
a plug and play ‘radio’ that claims to will quickly allow you to enjoy music and
news from all over the world. Let’s give it a try…

The USB Internet Radio Jukebox looks just like an ordinary USB flash drive.

It has a plastic cap and a wrap around metal body.

To use it, just plug it into an open USB port on your Windows XP or Vista
desktop or laptop (sorry, this product is not compatible with OS X). It will start out by prompting you to install something (I believe something to do with ActiveX) on the host computer and will then requires a reboot. Ugh.

Click thumbnail to see full sized screenshot

After you reboot and double click the USB drive letter, it will launch the Aluratek player. The top part of the screen is devoted to status information and playback controls, while the rest of the screen is used to display all the various stations available to you. The bottom of the screen shows Aluratek ads.

You can filter the list of stations by genre and region. According to the packaging information, there are 13,000 different internet radio stations that can be accessed by this product / software. When you click on a station name, it will connect and start playing music… if it can connect. Sometimes, it will connect to a station very quickly, and other times it will fail after a few seconds or several minutes.

If you enjoy listening to a station that you are able connect to, you can mark it as a favorite. What’s nice is that if you plug the USB dongle into another computer, it brings all your history and favorites along with it.

This product is easy to use, just plug it in and start listening… the thing is that you can listen to internet radio for free and not have to lose one of your USB slots. There are all kinds of web based radio players. One that comes to mind is Slacker Radio. You can also listen to internet radio through iTunes, Pandora, Live365, etc. As a result, I’m not really sure why you would buy this product when you can get the same features for free. The only way I think this product would be worth the price would be if it had some advanced features such as allowing you to add more stations, timed recordings, etc. As it is, I think I’d just save my $40 for another gadget purchase…

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Alurtek USB Internet Radio Jukebox Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on October 3, 2008 at 6:30 am.

I’m a minimalist. The problem is that I’m a minimalist that has too much stuff. ;o) For those of you that might be true minimalists, I have a nifty USB doo-dad to show you, that has the potential to allow you to ditch your High Def TV and DVR. It’s the PCTV HD Pro Stick (801e) from Pinnacle Systems. With it, you can use your Windows laptop or desktop computer as your TV and DVR. Let’s take a look…

I’m sure that you’ve all been seeing the public service announcements on TV regarding the fact that as of February
17th next year, analog TV signals
will be going bye bye. This tuner will allow you to pull in DTV (digital TV) channels over the air or via your cable company.

Hardware Specs

TV Standards:
-ATSC (HDTV up to 1080i, SDTV)
-NTSC (cable, over the air)
-ClearQAM (HDTV up to 1080i, SDTV)
Inputs:
-TV/FM antenna (F-connector/Coaxial)
-S-Video, Composite Video (RCA), Stereo Audio (1/8″)
Recording Formats:
-MPEG-1/2
-DivX4
-MPEG-4: compatible with PSP or iPod (Trial Version)

Package Contents

USB 2.0 TV tuner for ATSC/ClearQAM/NTSC and FM radio reception
Mini remote control including batteries
Portable telescopic high-gain antenna
A/V Adapter cable
USB extender cable
Printed quick start guide
CD with Pinnacle TVCenter Pro and VideoSpin editing software

The PCTV USB tuner doesn’t look much different than your run of the mill flash
drive. The only noticeable difference is the threaded connector sticking out of
one end. You can attach the included telescoping antenna to this connector, or
a coax cable to another antenna or cable TV cable.

On the Right side of the tuner is a small connector for the A/V Adapter cable which is included
with the package. You can use this cable to attach the tuner to a satellite or cable box.

I love the 25 button IR remote control that ships with the PCTV. It has real
buttons instead of the crummy plastic membrane type. It runs on 2 AAA batteries
which are thankfully also included.

To use the PCTV, you first need to install the Pinnacle TVCenter Pro software which is included on CD. Then plug the USB tuner into a free port on your computer, attach the included antenna and start launch the TVCenter Pro software. FYI: you can also use this tuner with Windows Media Center. The included remote is not compatible with Windows Media Center though…

The first time you run the software, it will scan for available channels in your area. It will find analog and digital. It will also find FM radio stations for you. Scanning can take awhile, so be prepared to wait about 10 minutes or so for that step to complete.

I was really surprised how many channels the included antenna found when I did my initial scan in my basement. Of course, when I did a second scan with the tuner connected to my 30 foot TV tower, it found quite a few more. The moral of the story is that the number of channels that this tuner can find is entirely dependent on your location.

It’s also important to remember that even if you get a long list of channels during your scan, that they might not all actually look that great when you try to watch them. Your signal will definitely vary per channel. In my area, scanning with the included desktop antenna found none of the network HD channels (ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX) in my area. But when I connected the coax from my 30 foot tower outside, it found all of them. I tried to get some screen shots of different channels in action, but had a heck of a time doing so. As luck would have it, the only screen shot I was able to capture that wasn’t completely blank was of a cartoon. I will say that when the signal was good, that the HD broadcasts looked great. You can watch the shows in a window or full screen. I did all my testing using my Macbook Pro running Windows Vista with Bootcamp. The HD channels (all channels for that matter) looked considerably better in window mode instead of full screen.

The software interface allows you to pause live TV just like a DVR / Tivo and then unpause to start playing the show where it left off. You can also schedule recordings like you would with a Tivo or VCR and save them to your hard drive or DVD. The program guide only allows you to see the guide per channel instead of all the channels in a grid, but it works ok. When you install the TVCenter Pro software, it gives you the choice of using the premium electronic program guide or the basic guide. The offer is 1yr free of the premium guide. Since they didn’t require a credit card, I went with the free offer. To me the premium guide seems pretty basic… but I’m coming from using a DirecTV HD DVR, which has a full programming grid, with searching and other features…

In addition to watching TV, the PCTV HD Pro Stick also picks up FM radio broadcasts. The software interface even has internet radio too…

If I was super short on space, I might even consider using this USB tuner with a desktop computer and a large LCD display in the place of a regular TV. That said, I’m really spoiled by my DirecTV HD DVR, so I wouldn’t want to deal with the weak program guide offered with this product. The other issue is the fact that there isn’t a Mac version of the TVCenter Pro software… But, if you’re a Windows user with $100, the PCTV HD Pro Stick from Pinnacle Systems is a fun USB gadget to play with.

Filed in categories: Audio, Video, TV Gear

Tagged: A/V, Audio, Desktop, Device, Laptop, Video

Pinnacle PCTV HD Pro Stick (801e) USB TV Tuner Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on August 18, 2008 at 8:21 pm.

Yesterday I reviewed the ShareCentral
1 USB sharing device from Kensington. I liked the simplicity of their product, but couldn’t help wanting more
from it. Today I want to show you the USB Super 16-Port Hub from Brando.
Yes, I said 16 ports! Yowza! I know this isn’t quite the same thing as the ShareCentral, but it’s close…

Hardware Specs

16 USB 2.0 ports
Voltage: 100V-240V
22.5V built in power supply
Dimension: 116 x 67 x 63mm (approx.)
Weight: 373g

Package Contents

16 port USB hub
Power cord
1 USB type A to B cable
User Manual (Japanese)

Made in Japan, the USB Super 16-Port Hub doesn’t come with any English instructions for its operation. That’s ok
though as it’s pretty much a no-brainer to set up.

The hub is made of brushed aluminum and reminds me of a Mac Pro tower. The word
‘stylish’ doesn’t exactly come to mind when you look at it, but I don’t think
it’s super ugly either.

It’s not hard to find a USB hub with seven ports, but each side of this hub has
eight USB 2.0 ports, for a total of sixteen! I run out of space with my seven
port hub all the time, but I don’t think I’d ever run out of ports with this bad
boy.

Besides the eight ports on each side of the hub, there is also a USB type B
connector. One side has a power switch…

…while the other side has a second USB type B connector and a power cord
connector. This hub has a power supply built into it, so no AC adapter is
needed. Yay! As for the power switch, I’m not quite sure why one is needed as
I’ve never had the desire to turn my USB hub off. Have you?

Are you wondering about the two USB type B connectors? That’s why this hub is
similar to the ShareCentral device. You can connect it between two computers.
One thing to note right away is the fact that only one USB A/B cable is included
in the box. If you wish to connect this hub to two computers, you’ll need to dig
up or purchase another cable.

 A slide switch on one side gives you the ability to swap all 16 ports from
one computer (PC, Mac, Linux box, whatever) to the other connected computer.

I tested this hub with a variety of USB flash drives, card readers, a flatbed
scanner, sync / charge cables, etc. and had no problems with it as far as
functionality. The only real issue that I have with this product is its design.
Connecting it between two computers results in an ugly arrangement of cables.
While I think it’s fine to have eight ports on each side, both USB type B
connectors should have been located on the same side of the hub along with the
power switch and power cable connector. That way you could route the cables
easier to each computer. As it is, you have to wrap one cable around the side of
the hub to get it out of the way. Other than that complaint, this hub should
give you enough ports so that you won’t have to plug and unplug your favorite
USB gadgets again. If you run out of ports with this hub, you I want to meet you
)

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear

Tagged: Desktop

Brando USB Super 16-Port Hub Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 24, 2008 at 12:00 pm.

Have you ever wished that you could easily share a USB device such as a printer, scanner, external hard drive, etc.
between to computers, without having to unplug and replug into either computer when you needed to use the device?
Kensington is here to help you out with their new ShareCentral USB
peripheral switch boxes.

Available in 1, 2 and 5 device switching models, the
ShareCentral comes with everything you need to get started sharing devices
between two computers.

Package Contents

ShareCentral1
1 36 inch USB cable
1 70 inch USB cable
2 Magnetic ID plates
Setup guide

The ShareCentral module is
4.25 x 3.25 x 1.375
inches in size and has an eye pleasing design. I can remember using a very
utilitarian looking metal switch box back in the day to switch a monitor between
two computers. It had a big Black plastic rotary dial and wasn’t very techie
looking at all. By contrast, the ShareCentral looks pretty slick with a push
button switch, two Amber LEDs
and interchangeable ID plates.

Included with the ShareCentral 1 are two additional ID plates that gives you the
ability to customize the switch box. There is one for a printer, hard drive and
a generic device plate. On the back side of each plate, there is a magnet that
allows you to easily snap in or remove the plate from the top of the box.

You can either place the ShareCentral on a desk, or mount it to the wall with
the mounting holes. They even include a paper template to help you know where to
put the screws in the wall.

The ShareCentral 1 is the simplest of the three available models. It has two USB
Type B connectors, an AC connector and one regular USB connector. You connect
one of the included USB cables from the ShareCentral to one computer and the
other cable to the second computer. It doesn’t matter if you’re using Windows
PCs, Macs, or Linux boxes. No software is needed to use this product. It’s all
plug and play.

The next step is to connect the USB device that you want to share between the two computers, to the the lone USB connector on the
ShareCentral. I tested this switch box with two iMacs, a flash card reader, my Palm Centro USB charge / sync cable and a Canon flatbed scanner.

To switch the connected USB device from computer to computer, you just press the
button on the top of the ShareCentral. The LED will light up to show that the
device has moved and badda boom, you can now use the USB device on the other
computer. Fast and easy. The only issues that I had with the ShareCentral are
related to the fact that I am a Mac user. If you hook up a device like a flash
card reader to the ShareCentral and switch it to the second computer without
first ejecting it on the first computer, you’ll receive a device error popup
message. I also noticed that when I first hooked this switch box up to my two
iMacs, that the first time that I used it, I also had a keyboard popup message.
It was as if my Mac thought I had just plugged in a new keyboard. Weird. This
happened on both iMacs a couple of times…

This is a nifty little gadget that is pretty useful. The only thing I would say
is that I personally wouldn’t fork over $40 for a switch box that can only
switch one device. I’d probably spend more and get the ShareCentral 2 or 5. The
added benefit of getting one of them is the fact that they can also
automatically detect which computer needs to use the printer. No button pressing
required. Apparently this added bonus is only compatible with computers running
Windows XP or Vista and does require a software installation. But hey, I thought
I’d mention it )

If you’re looking for an easy way to share USB devices
between two computers, you really can’t find anything easier than the Kensington
ShareCentral line of switch boxes.  This modern take on the clunky metal
switch box will cut down on having to buy duplicate devices, cable clutter and
network setup confusions. It’s a definite must have for multi computer families
that like to share peripherals.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear

Tagged: Desktop

Kensington ShareCentral 1 Review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 23, 2008 at 10:00 am.

Paranoia seems to be the norm when it comes to security these days, especially computer security. I know that I have probably 30 password variations that I use for 50-80 different sites and systems, making password management essential. What if there was a different way?

One alternative is the use of a biometric security mechanism. Biometric, sounds like something from a spy movie but in fact it is just a technique to uniquely recognize individuals based on one or more intrinsic physical characteristics. Fingerprints & iris recognition are probably the ones that are most common.

This review covers UPEK’s Eikon Digital Privacy Manager, a USB peripheral fingerprint reader. UPEK, Inc. is a leader in fingerprint biometric security solutions and their Eikon Digital Privacy Manager garnered the 2007 CES Best of Innovations Award. Let’s see what this biometric security solution has to offer.

Features/Specifications

Measurements: 1¼ inches wide and less than 3¼ inches long
Sleek design
Non-skid surface
Blue LED that blinks to indicate when the user should swipe their finger
Protector Suite QL software is requires Windows XP or Vista operating systems
Respond to Windows Vista User Account Control (UAC)
Logon to Windows
Lock and unlock the PC
Switch between Windows user accounts
Protect sensitive files by encrypting them
Launch favorite applications by assigning specific fingers for each one

In the Box

Eikon Digital Privacy Manager
Protector Suite QL 5.6.2 software CD
Start-Up Guide

UPEK has integrated biometric hardware and software into millions of the leading laptops. Now the Eikon Digital Privacy Manager leverages that same technology and makes it available to PC users by simply plugging the fingerprint reader into an available USB port and installing the Protector Suite QL software.

The sleek design of the device, along with the use of black and silver color makes a nice first impression. The small size, slightly larger than a stick of gum, and light weight increase the initial appeal.

Set-up is very simple and easy to complete. Insert the software CD into the CD-ROM drive, follow the software installation dialogues boxes and restart your computer, then plug the EIkon Digital Privacy Manager into your USB port to complete.

During the software installation, you have the option to store the fingerprints on the device or your hard drive. The negative of selecting the device is that you are restricted to 21 fingerprints. I honestly do not think this is much of a negative, 21 is a lot of fingerprints.

Whichever option you select, your fingerprint image is not stored on your computer. Instead UPEK utilizes a mathematical data-based representation which they call an “encrypted template” that is stored in the Eikon Digital Privacy Manager. This template cannot be used to reproduce the fingerprint image.

The software installation process includes nice tips and graphics to assist users. Here is an example on how to swipe your fingerprint.

Plus it makes you practice and we all know that practice does make perfect. Here you see and example that was 50% successful and had to take the test again.

Now here is a match on all four attempts.

I like the fact that the Protector Suite QL software accepts any finger you want. So if you are a left or right-handed, this device will easily adapt to your preference. You select which fingers you want to swipe and it captures the data. Here you can see I selected and swiped my right index finger, but if you wanted you could swipe and store all ten digits.

The software does recommend that you register more than one print just in case of injury. Sounds painful.

When I think of biometric security, the first question that comes to mind is, “what happens if the device stops working”. UPEK thinks about this and provides you a back-up mechanism.

So if you use the Eikon Digital Privacy Manager to access a file folder where you keep your financial information or maybe your collection of passwords and suddenly it stops working, you can use a password as a backdoor access.

The device also allows users to swipe their finger to access password-restricted web sites. The site information, including required password, is stored under the Password Bank tab of the menu.

One cool use of the device, that is not really security related, is using your fingerprints to launch applications. I used my right middle finger to start up Internet Explorer and it worked every time. If you have enrolled all your fingers, you can have ten applications literally at your fingertips.

UPEK is currently previewing a version of the Protector Suite QL software for Mac users. The download appears to be free on their site. So if the device sounds like something you would be interested in and you are a Mac user, you are in luck.

Overall I found UPEK’s Eikon Digital Privacy Manager a nice solution to the ever-growing password problems. The design, ease of use and functionality (access password protected sites, logon, lock/unlock, encrypt file folders, launch application and switch users) make it a worthy addition to your PC security.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

UPEK Eikon Digital Privacy Manager originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on October 25, 2007 at 5:33 pm.

Earlier this year, Audioengine was
kind enough to send me a pair of their wonderful
A5
speakers to review. These speakers have turned out to be a favorite of mine
and still occupy space on my desk at Gadgeteer headquarters. Now Audioengine
have created another set of speakers for people that don’t want to devote as
much desktop space and money in order to own a great sounding pair of speakers.
The A2′s work great with both PCs, Macs and other audio devices. Let’s take a
closer look.

Hardware Specifications

2 audio inputs (RCA and mini-jack)
60W total peak power
Frequency response 65Hz-22kHz
Built-in power amps (left speaker)
2.75in
Kevlar woofers for super low end
20mm
Silk tweeters for smooth highs
High-quality speaker connectors
Auto-sleep power-saving mode
Hand-built 18mm thick MDF cabinets with high-gloss polyurethane finish
Video-shielded

Dimensions: 6.00 x 4.00 x 5.25 inches
Weight: 3.55lbs (Left), 3.18lbs (Right)

Package Contents

AC Power supply
Speaker cable (16AWG), 2 meters (~6.5 feet)
1/8″ mini-jack audio cable, 2 meters (~6.5 feet)
1/8″” mini-jack audio cable, 20cm (~8 inches)
Drawstring power supply bag
Drawstring cable bag
Drawstring speaker bags (2)
Setup Guide

Upon unboxing the A2′s, I was immediately struck by the size of these new
speakers as compared to the A5′s.

They are almost a quarter of the size. Very cute, it’s like a baby with its
daddy. The A2′s have been constructed similarly to the A5′s, which means they
don’t look and feel like a pair of $50 speakers that you can pick up at Target
or CompUSA. These little guys are high quality speakers in a small package. 

Audioengine designs and manufactures their own tweeters, woofers, and many
other critical components that comprise their speakers. They are not "box built"
speakers with off the shelf parts, but entirely custom designed to their own
specifications. What they don’t fabricate directly in their factory, they have
custom made (parts such as toroidal transformers,
magnets, and wiring harnesses, for example). The cabinets, drivers, bass port
designs, and amplifiers are all tuned together for each Audioengine model.

Available in either Black or White, I was sent a pair of White A2′s. The Left
and Right speaker look identical from the front, but when you turn them around,
you will find that the Left speaker houses all the extra connections and
electronics.

The A2′s have two audio inputs. One set of RCA Left and Right jacks, and another
input that is a single 1/8" mini stereo jack. Typically, you would use the RCA
jacks to connect this set to your computer, TV or stereo. The 1/8" mini jack
allows you to easily connect your iPod or other audio device. All of my testing
with the A2′s was done with my
iPod classic
connected through an older iPod dock.

I was flabbergasted (I don’t think I’ve ever used that word in a review
before…) the first time I heard these speakers in action. Wow! They sound very
much like the A5′s, which means that they sound great! I won’t say that they
sound exactly like the A5′s, because they don’t. They lack a little bit of the
crispness / treble that the A5′s have. But the bass is amazing and they are truly head and shoulders
better sounding than other desktop speakers that I’ve owned in the past.

When you crank up the volume, air puffs out of the horizontal vent that is
located at the bottom of each speaker. The volume level that these little guys
can go up to is very surprising. I think they can go to eleven, but they
rattle my windows before I even turn them up half way! )  Speaking of volume though,
that’s where my only true criticism of these speakers lies. I don’t like the
fact that the combination power and volume knob is located on the back of the
speakers. I really wish this was on the front as it would make access so much
more convenient. There’s also the fact that there isn’t any type of power status
indicator. The A5′s have an LED on the front; the A2′s do not.

Disregarding my gripe about the volume knob location, I have found the
Audioengine A2 speakers to be an affordable alternative to the bigger A5 set. At
$200, these probably won’t be a spur of the moment purchase for anyone, but if you want
a wonderful sounding pair of speakers that don’t require a large portion of your desktop real estate, then the A2′s might be a good choice for you.

Filed in categories: Audio, Video, TV Gear

Tagged: A/V, Audio, Desktop, Device, Speakers, Video

Audioengine A2 Desktop Speakers originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on October 18, 2007 at 5:15 pm.

“You can never be too skinny or have too much money.” Isn’t that the way the old saying goes? I would like to make an update and reword it to now say: “You can never too skinny or have too much disk storage”. With 10MP digital cameras, digital audio and video, file space can quickly become filled to capacity. I have four computers in my home, and they all have this issue. I also have an issue regarding backing each drive up. Right now I back up my primary computer, but not the others. This is definitely not a good practice. Lucky for me, I found a possible solution for both of these problems, with Maxtor’s Shared Storage II NAS (Network Attached Storage) device.

The Shared Storage II drives come in three capacities: 320GB, 500GB and 1TB. Of course, I’m going to tell you about the 1TB version. Did you have any doubts? ;o)

Hardware Specifications

RPM: 7200
Cache Buffer: 16MB
Connectivity: 1 – 10/100/1000 RJ-45 Gigabit Ethernet port, 2 – USB 2.0 ports for printer sharing, storage, expansion or offsite data rotation
Operating Temp: 5C to 35C (41F to 95F)
Dimensions: 5.4 x 3.9 x 8.5 inches (136 x 97.5 x 217mm)
Weight: 6lbs
AC Voltage: 100-240 VAC
Input Frequency: 47-63 Hz AC

Package Contents

Shared Storage II drive
Maxtor Backup and Easy Manage Software
Ethernet Cable
Power Adapter
User’s guide on CD
Maxtor Limited Warranty

The drive is quite a bit smaller than I had anticipated. Definitely smaller than the 1TB LaCie drive that I had briefly tried out before giving to Rob last year. The reason why I gave away the LaCie drive was due to noise, not its footprint.

Yes, I know I have the drive laying on it’s side. Let me preface that by saying that I now know that I have it on its side. I guess I was oblivious to the picture on the box and for some reason, I thought this was the correct orientation. By the time I realized my mistake, I already had all the cables unbundled and the drive plugged in for testing. I was too lazy to unhook everything to re-take the pix. Anyway, the Maxtor Shared Storage II drive has a gun metal Blue Aluminum (I think) case with a brushed Silver band across the front. Hard rubber covers the sides.

There are three Green status LEDs behind the Silver strip. From Left to Right, they are Power Activity, Disk Activity and Network Activity.

On the back side, you will find a large heat vent, a Gigabit Ethernet port, 2 USB ports, AC adapter port and the Power button. The USB ports allow you to plug in more external storage or even a printer.

There are also 2 heat vents on either side of the drive, cut into the rubber covering.

Setting up this drive is a breeze. It actually doesn’t even come with a manual, just a fold open quick start guide. All you really do is plug the included Ethernet cable into the back of the drive and then into a free port on your router or switch. Then you plug in the power cable and press the power button on the drive.

The next step is to install the EasyManage software that is included on CD. There is a separate version for Windows and Mac users. Yay!

Click thumbnail to see full-size screen shot

The first time you click the desktop icon to launch the software, it pops up your browser. It may confuse people that are there two interfaces for this drive. A web interface and then a desktop application.

Click thumbnail to see full-size screen shot

The web interface has most of the settings for passwords, firmware update, user accounts, etc. This is also where you would turn on the RAID feature (it is off by default). RAID (which stands for Redundant Array of Independent Disks) basically allows you to use one of the two 500GB drives inside the Shared Storage II for file storage and then an exact duplicate (mirror) of that drive is made on the other 500GB drive. This mirror happens automatically as you access the drive. Then if one drive goes belly up, the other drive automatically kicks in. With this featured turned off, the drives are set to Spanning mode, which means that they appears as one 1000GB (1TB) drive.

The EasyManage desktop application is mainly for configuring automated backup and restore operations.

If you have more than one computer on your network, you will need to install the software on each computer that you want to have access to the drive. Once you install the software (which requires a reboot after installation), you create a user account that represents the computer.

The accounts can be either Public or Private. Public is open to all users on your network and Private is password protected. You can also specify a type of either Home, Business or None. If you choose Home, a default directory structure will be created that looks like this:

If you choose the Business type, the structure is similar, but with folders such as My Documents, My SpreadSheets, My Presentations, etc. If you choose None, the default structure will not be created. The Home and Business structures help you keep your files organized if you just intend to use this drive as regular external storage. The structure also comes in handy when you use the Drag and Sort feature which I’ll tell you about a bit farther down in the review.

Once you install the EasyManage software on each machine and create an account on each one, you will then be able to see and access the folders for each account from all your computers on your network. If you click on an account name, it will map that share as a drive on your computer. From there, you can copy files back and forth like you would any regular hard drive.

Network file storage is a great feature, but what I like even better is the ability schedule automatic backups for all your computers on your network. It is very easy to setup, you just specify which folders you want to be backed up, what time the backups should occur and on which days. You can also specify how many backup versions to keep.

When a backup is initiated, it will first scan the computer for changed files and will then start the backup process. I don’t have Gigabit Ethernet here at Gadgeteer HQ, so backups probably could be a lot faster if I upgraded. Accessing the drive from various computers on my network seemed quite fast though. No noticeable lag navigating folders, listening to music files or viewing videos.

With the Mac version (not sure what features are available with the Windows version) of EasyManage, you can tell the software to wake the Mac or even start the Mac when it’s time for the backup operation to begin.

The Drag and Sort feature is supposed to allow you to drag files to the drive icon for the Shared Storage II and have it automatically sort the files and place them in the appropriate folder (My Photos, My Music, etc.). You can specify which file types go in which folders and can even add new types. The problem is that I could not get this feature to work on my Mac. I tried and tried but was not successful. Whenever I would drag and drop files on the drive icon, they all ended up in the root of the account folder instead of the individual folders. I poked around in the included User Guide.PDF file and didn’t find much info at all to help me troubleshoot the problem. Basically all I could find was an explanation of the feature.

At one point, my iMac was in a continuous loop asking me to connect to an SMB/GIFS drive (whatever the heck that is). I had to reboot my machine and then reboot the Shared Storage II drive to get that condition to go away.

Click thumbnail to see full-size screen shot

I wasted quite a bit of time on another feature mentioned on the box… “Get more enjoyment from your home entertainment center. Access your digital entertainment without ever turning on your computer. Built in media streaming allows playback of digital photos, music and video to our networked home entertainment system“. Again, in trying to understand more about this feature, I went to the documentation only to find that there was a severe lack of it. I finally found out that you have to connect the drive to a UPnP certified digital media adapter for this feature. Unfortunately, I do not have such an adapter, so I was unable to test the functionality…

I like the physical size of the Maxtor Shared Storage II and also appreciate how quiet it is. You can hear the fan running, but it’s not overly intrusive. As a network drive, it works as advertised. The EasyManage software is very easy to use for scheduling automatic backups. The easier setup is, the more likely a person will use it, so that’s a good thing. I do wish the documentation was a little more robust for some of the features such as Drag and Drop and Media Streaming. But all and all, I have found this device to be a welcome addition to network.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear

Tagged: Desktop

Maxtor Shared Storage II NAS Device originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on August 10, 2007 at 9:00 pm.

As a kid, I remember sitting in front of my Mom’s vertical Baldwin piano, trying to learn to play Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9 Ode To Joy. I never had real lessons, I just used the many lesson books that my Mom had used when she was a little girl. The piano bench was full of them and I loved paging through them, seeing the cartoon-like pictures for each new song. Once in awhile my Mom would sit down on the bench with me to give me pointers, but for the most part she never criticized my talent or lack there of. I just loved plunking those keys, making music. It didn’t matter if I was any good at it or not. Wow, I’m tearing up just writing this. I miss my mom…

I didn’t pursue piano, and wound up becoming more interested in guitar. But over the years I’ve often thought about trying to learn to play again. That’s why I was really interested when I was asked if I might like to review the Piano Wizard hardware / software learning system by Allegro Rainbow.

Piano Wizard is a new way of learning to play piano and is geared more towards kids (ages 8+) than adults. That fact really didn’t bother me though.

The PREMIER package ships with the M-Audio Keystation 49e keyboard. This is a USB Midi keyboard with 49 full size velocity sensitive keys. It is Windows and Mac compatible and requires a USB cable for connectivity and power. The package also includes the Piano Wizard software package on CD. There is a version of the software available for both Mac and Windows users.

Setup couldn’t be easier. All I had to do was put the Piano Wizard software CD in my iMac and install it. Then I plugged the USB cable into my hub and was ready to go.

The software uses colors for each key, so three sheets of stickers are included that you use to map the keyboard. Extra stickers are left over, so you have replacements if they become worn.

The M-Audio keyboard is very nice. It has a built in volume slider, a pitch bend wheel, modulation wheel and octave adjustment buttons.

The keys don’t feel like a real piano as they are plastic, but they are full size and have good travel.

On the back of the keyboard, you will find a power port, USB port, MIDI out, a foot pedal port and the power switch. At first I was worried that the AC adapter had been left out of my package. But nope, you don’t need it for connecting to your computer. All you need is the included USB cable. Yay!

The keyboard is large (31.5 inches wide x 8.5 inches deep), so you’ll need room in front of your computer to set it up.

The software allows you to choose Easy Mode or Premier mode. Let’s start with Easy Mode )

When you click Easy or Premier, the software (on the Mac) takes over the whole screen and changes the resolution, so that when you quit out of the application, all your windows have been resized and moved. That annoyed me a bit. I’d rather it just stay running in a window like any other OS X application.

You can decide which lesson block you would like to try, 1-5, 6-10 or Free Play. You also have the choice of how you want the notes to show up. Either just by color, with finger numbering or note names. Beginners will want to start with just color.

Then you can decide if you want to play just with the Left hand, Right hand or both. Again, beginners should stick with the default of the Right hand. You’ll also see a list of 5 songs. The first song “Your Dreams” is the easiest and the last song “Foot of Yonder Mountain” is the hardest.

After you choose your song, you can pick the background, or as the software calls it: World. This is just a background image and associated graphics. The default here is the dinosaur screen with the egg graphic.

The whole idea of the Piano Wizard software is to make learning to play piano easy for kids. To do that, they have created a video game that is a little bit like Guitar Hero. As the song plays, colored graphics move from the bottom of the screen up to the keyboard along the top edge. When the graphic is right between the Yellow and Red lines, you press the matching key on your keyboard, to break the egg and sound the note. Easy huh? At first you don’t even really care where your hands are. You just want to hit the keys at the right time, to play the song.

When the song ends, you are presented with your score. It’s pretty addictive, even for an adult.

After playing with this level for awhile, I started wondering how in the heck this game would allow me to learn to actually play the piano. It wasn’t teaching me the notes or even which fingers I was supposed to be using to press the keys. My questions were answered when I moved to Level 2, which turns the keyboard vertically. That starts preparing you to learn to read a musical staff. Later levels then introduce the actual notes. The colors are still there and you can even show the finger numbering to help you learn to place your hands on the keyboard in the correct way. The last level removes the colors and numberings. This method of learning is actually pretty clever.

The Premier option has harder songs, including popular rock music like Smoke on the Water and John Lennon’s Imagine. This software is very challenging! I spent all afternoon trying to get a good score playing Imagine. The best I could do was about 65%. Pretty lame. Hey, it’s a tough song! Luckily, you can slow the tempo down, to help you learn.

Don’t see your favorite song in the list? No problem, just search around on the internet for the song in MIDI format, and then you can load it directly into the software. Nice!

There’s even a Free Play option that you can use to just jam on the piano using a choice of lots of different instruments. The only feature I didn’t find was a way to record your songs in Free Play mode.

Piano Wizard is definitely an interesting approach to piano instruction. It doesn’t start with theory, but just allows a kid have fun playing a video game. Little by little, the game helps the child learn to actually play music and read notes. The only thing I wish this system had is a music book with all the songs in both the color coded play method and regular notation. Other than that, it’s definitely captured my interest. Now to go see if I can make a better score on that Lennon tune.

Filed in categories: Musical Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Entertainment, Instrument, Software

Piano Wizard PREMIER Keystation 49e Package originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on August 8, 2007 at 9:39 pm.

Recently my day job has required me to give numerous presentations to large groups. Of course, you always want to come off looking as professional as possible, so I found myself in search for a presentation remote that could assist me. JasperLaser recently released the Jasper Keynote presentation remote, so let’s see if that fits my needs.

Features and Specifications:

Switch Type: Momentary push trigger
Available Color: Black
Wavelength: 532nM
Output Power: < 5mW
Beam Range: Over 10-miles outdoors, depending on atmospheric conditions
Power Supply: One 3V, Type CR123A lithium battery
Pointer Dimensions: 5.75” (length) x 1.5” diameter (maximum)
Ergonomic shape for comfortable use
30-day satisfaction guarantee return policy
120-day warranty
Laser color: Green

Contents of the Box:

Jasper Keynote remote
Lanyard
USB receiver
Battery
Instruction booklet

Opening the box, I was initially disappointed by the size of the remote, especially the length which is nearly 6”. Remotes that I have used in the past were much smaller in size, roughly half the size of the Keynote. If size does matter, the Keynote could be in trouble.

Image courtesy of JasperLaser.com

Fortunately my initial disappointment evaporated when I picked up the remote. The ergonomic design allows the device to fit very comfortably in the palm of your hand and the function buttons are perfectly placed for utilization by your thumb and index finger. The remote is cast in a round, almost tubular form with sculpted finger grips on the under-side. JasperLaser did a great job of engineering a design that completely eliminates any concerns from the size of the remote.

For power, the Jasper Keynote utilizes a single 3-volt, Type CR123A lithium battery. As noted earlier, one battery is included in the package.

The manufacturer explains one benefit of the 3V battery is that it is more resistant to cold temperatures in comparison to AAA battery. Not sure how much of a plus this really is because I would think the primary use of the presentation remote would be for indoor use.

Looking at the top of the remote, you will see three buttons:
Up Button – In most presentation programs this is the previous slide.
Down Button – In most presentation programs this would be the next slide.
Pairing Button – Used to connect to the wireless USB receiver.

At the tip of the remote is the source of the laser output. Of course, you do not want to look directly here when the laser is active.

The opposite end of the remote has the hole for the lanyard to connect. I was not expecting to use the lanyard much but I found it a beneficial addition that reduces the likelihood of accidentally dropping the device.

Turning the remote over to expose its belly, you will find the battery compartment underneath the molded grip. To access the battery compartment, slide the door towards the back-end of the remote, where the lanyard is located.

Moving towards the front-tip, you will find the trigger-like laser button. Again, the remote’s design allows the user to easily access the laser button with the index finger without looking.

The wireless USB receiver is simplistic with only an Indicator Button. This button is used for set-up or “pairing” it to the remote. The outside diameter of the button is a light to indicate status.

Setting up the presentation remote is very easy.

Insert the receiver into an available USB port.
Press the Indicator Button on the wireless receiver until the light flashes slowly.
Press the Pairing Button on the remote until the indicator light on the receiver flashes rapidly.
Set-up is complete.

The built-in laser is the coolest feature of the Jasper Keynote. Now I am a child of the 70’s, so the original Star Wars trilogy was a big part of my childhood and wielding the Keynote’s green laser reminded me of Luke in Return of the Jedi.

The laser is extremely powerful and bright, reportedly 50-times brighter than the standard red laser, showing up very well on the presentation screen regardless of the room lighting. The green color is also a nice change from red lasers that all my colleagues’ presentation remotes project. Standing out from the norm can be a good thing.

JasperLaser states that the green laser has enough strength that the beam range is over 10-miles, depending on atmospheric conditions. Yes, that is correct 10 (ten, 9 + 1) miles. One of the warnings even states not to point the laser at airplanes. Now that is what I would call range.

That strength allows the Keynote’s laser to serve an additional function of pointing out things in the night sky. I guess that is where you will see the benefit of the 3-volt battery resistance to cold temperatures.

The laser in the presentation remote uses JasperLaser’s exclusive Automatic Power Control (APC) technology which maintains the beam strength at a consistent level. Meaning the strength of the laser beam will not diminish, even if the laser is continually on for over a minute. So if you presentation requires an extensive amount of laser pointing, the Keynote’s laser will stay strong.

Radio frequency (RF) is used to send the functions from the remote to the wireless USB receiver. Using RF instead of infrared extends the range of the device allowing the user to control their presentation in large lecture halls and without fear of the infrared port being obstructed. Since the Jasper Keynote uses a radio signal, it does not need to be pointed at the computer to work.

In one test of the Keynote, I was able to successfully control a presentation about 30-feet away from my computer with a six-foot cubicle wall between the remote and the receiver. Very impressive.

Unfortunately, in another test, in front of actual presentation audience, the Keynote worked sporadically, at best. It would transition through a few slides and then stop working, only to start working again in a few minutes. Embarrassing to say the least.

Reviewing the user guide, it mentions electronic noise could disrupt the radio signal.
”Sometimes electronic noise from your computer will interfere with this (radio) signal. If your receiver does not seem to pair or work properly with your Keynote, try restarting your computer or closing other programs that are not in use.”:

Not sure if this was the culprit of my frustration but it definitely was my prime suspect. Wireless computing technology is available in my workplace too, I wonder if that contributed to the noise.

This is a big concern because the last thing you want to happen in the midst of an important presentation is your remote to stop working. Stopping to close other programs during a presentation would be a major hiccup but having to restart your computer would definitely be an embarrassing no-no in a professional presentation.

In total, I tested the Keynote in ten presentations, with settings ranging from big conference rooms to small, and I encountered problems twice. Experiencing sporadic performance twenty-percent of the time definitely would make me reconsider using the device in an important presentation.

Another issue is that the Jasper Keynote always emits a radio signal, even when not being used, draining the battery. The user guide recommends removing the battery when not in use to extend the life of the battery. Since the manufacturer fails to provide a carrying case, keeping the battery with the device could be troublesome.

In conclusion, the powerful green laser, great ergonomic design and extended range from using radio frequency make the Jasper Keynote a powerful tool for a presenter. That said the radio signal reliability and the fact that it is constantly on needs to be considered when making the commitment to add the device to your presentation arsenal.

Filed in categories: Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Jasper Keynote originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 31, 2007 at 9:10 pm.

If you read my review of the Slim Mouse, this review might seem a bit familiar because both mice have a somewhat similar shape and design. The mouse that we’re going to focus on for this review is the Twister Laser Mouse from Rocketfish. It is hands down better than the Slim Mouse though. Keep reading to find out why.

Rocketfish is one of Best Buy’s house brands for computer accessories.

Package Contents

Twister mouse
Neoprene case
2 AAA batteries
User guide
CD with mouse customization software

The Twister Laser mouse is a small laptop / travel mouse made of shiny Black plastic. It has Left and Right mouse buttons with good tactile feedback and an audible click when you press them. Between the two mouse buttons is a scroll flat panel. You just slide your finger along this panel to scroll up and down through lists and pages. The scroll panel is also a button that can be clicked an used for middle mouse button functions.

If you flip the mouse over, you will see the laser eye, connect button and On/Off switch. You might also notice something sticking out from the side of the mouse. More about this in a bit.

In case you’re a bit slow, I’ll let you in on why this mouse is called the Twister Laser mouse. It’s because it twists. Wow! The back half of the mouse rotates around to allow the mouse to lay flat for storage.

Pretty cool huh?

Because the Twister is wireless, it requires batteries. The battery compartment is located in the back section of the body. Pop off the cover and insert the included 2 AAA batteries and you’re ready for action. You’ll not have to wonder about battery levels as there is an LED built into the ring surrounding the middle scroll panel. When you turn the the Twister on, it will light up to display the capacity. Green means normal and Red flashing means low.

Well you’re almost ready for action. You still have to connect the mouse to your PC / Mac first. You do this with the USB 2.4GHz dongle that stores inside the mouse. Just push to eject it.

Then plug it into an open USB port and you’re good to go. I didn’t even need to press the connect button on the bottom of the Twister. It just began working as soon as I plugged it in. There’s a small LED on the USB dongle that acts as a battery level indicator like the one on the mouse itself. It will glow Green when you plug it in to indicate normal levels and will blink Red when it’s time to change batteries in the mouse.

The mouse is small, so it might be a bit awkward to use for some people. I found it infinitely easier to use than the Slim Mouse, but no where near as comfortable as my every day mouse: Logitech MX Revolution Cordless Laser Mouse. Of course the Logitech is a lot larger than the Twister and not exactly convenient for traveling…

The Left and Right buttons are easy to press and the scroll panel works just fine. There’s even a forth button on the Left side of the Twister that can be configured (along with the middle button) using the included software CD. By default, on my iMac, pressing this side button initiates Expose and pressing the middle button brought up my running Dashboard widgets.

Here you see the Twister Laser mouse next to a regular sized Logitech mouse. It is noticeably smaller. Great for popping in your gear bag when you’re on the go.

The Twister Laser mouse is easy to use and inexpensive. I really like the way it transforms to create a small travel package. It’s definitely on my favorite list for travel mice.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Rocketfish Twister Wireless Laser Notebook Mouse originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 16, 2007 at 8:32 pm.

Mice come in all shapes and sizes these days. They are available in corded and non-corded varieties, using Bluetooth and other wireless protocols. Some run on batteries, some don’t. But all mice share a couple of important features… They have Left and Right buttons (ok, some Mac mice have just 1…), and they move the cursor around on your display. Today I’m going to tell you about the Slim Mouse. This mouse has those important features mentioned above, all bundled into an extremely thin package. Power Positioning (2P) actually claims that this mouse is the world’s thinnest. Is that a good thing? Let’s find out.

The Slim Mouse comes packaged in a slim box. Who knew?

The mouse is housed in a pleather case and comes packaged with a thin mouse pad and owner’s guide.

Upon taking the Slim Mouse out of the case, you are immediately struck by the fact that it looks like a PC Card. It’s made of metal and plastic, with a footprint of 94mm x 53mm x 5mm. I was sent the Cherry version, but it’s also available in Blue, Ivory and Silver. You notice the outline of the Left and Right mouse buttons and then a flat surface between them. This is the scroll ‘wheel’. Not a wheel though, it’s a touch sensitive pad. It’s just like a touch pad on your laptop. The Left and Right buttons are actually buttons though. They click when you press them.

The Slim Mouse is not wireless. So in order to connect it to your PC or Mac, you have to unwind the USB cable that is housed inside the mouse. To do this, you first pull the section with the Left / Right buttons and scroll pad out an inch or so.

Then you pull the thin cable so that it unwinds from the spool inside the mouse.

Even though the cable is short (26 inches), it’s a slow process of unwinding the cable. This is because if you go too fast, the cable will jump out of groove and get wedged under the top of the spool.

Once the cable is loose, you still need to convert the flat mouse into a useable mouse by twisting the two halves.

Oooh, transformers!

A little slight of hand magic and voila, we have a mouse.

Now, you can plug the end into a free USB connector on your PC / Mac. Even though this cable looks strange, it’s really a USB cable, so don’t be afraid ;o) Once it is plugged in, you’re ready to go. No drivers are necessary as the Slim Mouse works just like every other plug & play mouse you’ve used before.

Flip it over and you’ll see the optical eye. The Slim Mouse is an 800 dpi mouse that should work on all surfaces except for glass. The folks at Power Positioning (2P) might want to add wood grained desks to the list of surfaces that the Slim Mouse doesn’t like. At least it wouldn’t work for me at my day job. I had to employ the included mouse pad or a sheet of paper in order for it to work. The desk was not overly shiny… I have been able to successfully use the Slim Mouse on other surfaces like counter tops, etc, with no issues.

Using the Slim Mouse does feel a bit awkward initially. At least it did for me. There just isn’t enough solid mass to it, to make it feel really comfortable in my hand. Although the buttons, scrolling etc, work like every other mouse I’ve used in my life, it just feels a bit foreign in my hand when I try to use it.

Here’s a size comparison between the Slim Mouse and a regular old 2 button Logitech scroll mouse.

A couple different places on the Slim Mouse website states that you can store the Slim Mouse in a PC Card slot when your not using it, or for travel. Well, as you can see from the image above, it doesn’t quite fit completely into the slot. It’s probably a better plan to just put it in the carrying case and throw it in your gear bag.

The Slim Mouse has an interesting design, but for me, it just seemed to be too much of a hassle to use it. It also feels a bit fragile since the cord is quite thin. For me, I’ll just stick with a small travel wireless mouse such as the Kensington Ci75m Wireless Notebook Mouse. It’s less expensive and easier to use.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

G4 Slim Mouse originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 16, 2007 at 5:47 pm.

Kensington has just released a new Ci
Lifestyle collection of input devices for your Windows or Mac desktop and / or notebook that they sent me to test. They sent the Ci70 Wireless Desktop set that includes both a wireless keyboard and a wireless mouse, and the Ci75m Wireless Notebook Mouse which is available in
two colors. Let’s take a closer look at each of them.

Ci70 Wireless Desktop Set

Package Contents

Wireless keyboard
Wireless mouse with USB dongle
USB extension cable
2 sets of AA batteries
Instruction guide

Everything you need for sleek wireless input is included in this set. With a foot print of 16 inches x 7 inches, this slim profile keyboard has a modern sci-fi style to it. Even though it’s made of plastic, it looks metallic due to the Grey and Silver color.

This keyboard is compatible with both Windows PCs and Mac computers. It’s kind of odd to see both an Apple key and Windows logo key on one keyboard.

There is a row of 5 special keys along the top edge of the keyboard. The leftmost key is a disk eject key. Funny thing is, it only works for Mac users. Next to it are keys for searching, email, web and media. These keys only work for Windows machines. A small LED next to the row of keys is a low battery indicator. The Ci70 keyboard set is powered by 2 sets of AA batteries. One set goes in the keyboard and one set goes in the mouse.

A plastic cover slides over the special keys and reveals a dock for the included wireless mouse. The dock doesn’t actually charge the mouse, but it does automatically turn it off when you store the mouse in the slot.

I like the mouse dock, but really wish it was used to charge the batteries in the mouse while it is docked. I guess that would require that the keyboard NOT be wireless though. This is an option that wouldn’t bother me, but that would defeat the purpose of this set ;o)

For me, I don’t need a wireless keyboard as I don’t like to type in my lap. The only place where I have found the need for one is in the living room where I have a Mac mini hooked up to my TV. This set does work well in that situation.

The keyboard reminds me more of a laptop keyboard than a regular desktop computer keyboard because of the slim profile of the keys. The keys do have decent tactile feedback while remaining quiet. No clickity clackity keys here. I had no trouble
acclimating myself to using this keyboard. I’m typing this review using it right now. The only problem I’ve noticed is the location of the Apple key. I’m used to this key being positioned directly to the left of the spacebar instead of on the outside edge like it is.

The keyboard is very flat, but there are small fold out feet on the back that can be used to elevate it a bit.

The wireless mouse included with this set is equally as sleek as the keyboard. It is an optical 2 button mouse with a scroll wheel. The scroll wheel is also a button that can be pressed. On my Mac, when I press the scroll wheel, my screen toggles to show running Dashboard widgets. I’m not sure what it does with a Windows PC.

If you flip the mouse over, you’ll find the battery compartments and stored USB receiver. You’ll also notice the a small square switch on the upper Right edge. This switch mates with the dock nubs to turn off power to the mouse when it is stored in the dock.

The USB receiver is used by both the mouse and the keyboard in this set. When it is removed from the slot in the bottom of the mouse, you can see the optical mouse ‘eye’.

In use, I had no problems using the keyboard. But I have noticed a few issues with the wireless mouse. Waking up the mouse after it’s been idle for several minutes requires a button press. Just moving the mouse doesn’t seem to do the trick. On more than a couple of
occasions, the mouse pointer will stutter, pause, freeze, etc. It doesn’t seem to be an idle out problem, but just happens intermittently. It’s also not a problem with how far the USB receiver is from the mouse as my testing has been with it only around 1 foot away and up to 5 feet away.

I like the keyboard, but the mouse not so much…

Price:

$79.99

Ci75m Wireless Notebook Mouse

It seems like mice that are made specifically for notebooks or travel tend to be
itty bitty devices that make your hand look like giant’s when you go to use one. 
Can you say hand cramp? The Ci75m Wireless Notebook Mouse doesn’t have that
problem.

Available in Orange and Black, this mouse has the same basic look / shape of the
mouse that is included with the desktop set reviewed above. But it’s a bit
thinner and has some tricks up its sleeve when it comes to connectivity.

Here you see the Ci75 next to a regular sized wired mouse. Looks like someone
stepped on the little guy doesn’t it? Even though the profile is thin, this
mouse is comfortable use because it’s full sized except for the thickness.

It’s an optical mouse with 3 buttons (that’s including the scroll wheel which
when pressed in acts as a 3rd button). The scroll wheel is a rubber covered
wheel that has a slight ratcheting feel when you turn it with your finger.

Flip the mouse over and you will see the USB receiver stowed in its slot.

Remove the USB dongle, plug it into a free slot in your PC or Mac and you’re
ready to go. No pairing needed. Totally plug and play.

If you take a closer look at the USB receiver, you will find a small rubber flap
that when opened, reveals a mini USB plug. This is one of the tricks that this
mouse has up its sleeve…

Just pop off the cover of the mouse. It’s easy to do because it’s held in place
by 3 magnets. Once you remove it, you’ll see the battery compartment and a mini
USB cable.

Unwind the cable which is wrapped around the base of the mouse and then plug it
into the USB receiver which is in turn plugged into your PC or Mac. This allows
you to use the mouse even if you run out of battery power. I love this feature
because you never know when you’re on trip or in an airport and don’t have
access to extra batteries. This way you never have to be afraid of your mouse
failing due to battery power.

Here are the magnets on the bottom of the cover.

Unlike the mouse included in the Ci70 desktop set, I had no problem using this
mouse with my Mac or a PC. It glides smoothly across the physical and virtual
desktop, never skipping or freezing.

The Kensington Ci75m is a nice little mouse. It is super easy to use, has a back
up power option and looks great with the rubbery Orange shell. I’m definitely
putting this mouse in my gear bag for my next trip!

Price:

$34.99

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Keyboard, Laptop

Kensington Wireless Ci70 Desktop Set and Ci75 Notebook Mouse originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on June 15, 2007 at 3:18 pm.

I have been using a Logitech MX1000 cordless mouse for just over 2 yrs now. I love it and am not sure I’d ever want to go back to a generic wired mouse. The MX1000 has served me very well, with long working time between charges (typically 2 weeks or so) and smooth action. Now I have the chance to tell you about the MX1000′s successor: the new MX Revolution rechargeable cordless laser mouse.

Looking at the box, you might think this new version is just a slight revamp of the hardware. At least that’s what my first impression was…

Package Contents

Logitech MX Revolution Cordless Laser Mouse
Recharging station
AC power cord
USB micro-receiver
Logitech SetPoint software CD
User’s guide
3-year limited warranty

The immediate differences that I noticed upon opening the box and seeing the contents, were the slight restyling of the mouse shell, a more compact recharge dock, and a USB dongle. The dongle is a nice change from the previous model. Now you don’t need to route yet another USB cable to the dock and to a free port on your computer. The dongle is a 2.4 GHz micro receive with up to a 30 foot range.

The mouse has a slightly more compact and sculpted design. This new version weighs in at 5.3 ounces while the MX1000 is 6.0 ounces.

Like most optical mice, you don’t need to use a mouse pad under the mouse. The MX Revolution has low-resistance polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) feet which allows it to glide smoothly over most surfaces. The feet are a little larger than the feet on the MX1000, and I do notice a slightly better glide with this new mouse.

On the bottom of the mouse, you’ll also notice a small On/Off switch. You basically flip it on and forget about it.

Here we see the MX Revolution on the left and the MX1000 on the right. Although you can’t see the battery gauge on the MX Revolution, it is located in the same spot as on the MX1000 (you can see it on the MX1000 in the image above) and looks the same when lit up.

The top surface of the mouse has the normal left and right buttons, which have excellent action and tactile feedback. Between these buttons you will find the scroll wheel. This isn’t an ordinary scroll wheel though. It’s called the MicroGear precision scroll wheel. Yeah, that sounds a little self important doesn’t it ;o) But it really is VERY cool. First of all, the wheel is made of a machined alloy and has a rubber tread on the edge. This wheel has two modes: free-spin and click-to-click. In free-spin mode, the wheel will roll almost on its own. This allows you to very quickly speed scroll through a long document, spreadsheet, web page, etc. It feels really smooth to spin. I LOVE this mode!

In the click-to-click mode, the wheel feels more ‘normal’ in that it will ratchet or click as you scroll. You can have the software auto sense which mode to use, or you can manually switch between modes by clicking the wheel. I should also mention that the scroll wheel can be pressed left or right to scroll horizontally in either direction.

I only have one problemw with the scroll wheel. I noticed that I am unable to click the top scroll wheel on a web link in my browser to open that link in a new tab. This is a feature that works with most scroll wheel mice in Firefox, Camino and other browsers. Unfortunately, clicking the scroll wheel on this mouse changes the scroll mode from free-spin to click-to-click. I use this feature all the time, so I’m disappointed that I can’t do so with the MX Revolution.

Directly behind the scroll wheel is a small rectangular one-touch search button. You can configure this button to launch your favorite searching mechanism. Then, when you select a word or phrase and press this button, it will use that app to search for the terms you specified. By default this was set to search using Spotlight on my iMac. I changed it to launch google in my browser.

On the left side you will find another scroll wheel and the thumb forward and back buttons above it. Using the Logitech Control Center application, you can customize how you would like for these buttons to function. By default these buttons are set (on the Mac) to go forwards and backwards through web pages. I don’t really use these buttons because it feels a little awkward to reach up and press them with my thumb.

Click on thumbnails to see full-size images

The scroll wheel on the left side isn’t the same as the one on the top of the mouse. This one is spring loaded and can just be rolled forward and backward. It is similar to a jog dial on a PDA. It will allow you to scroll through open applications or documents. When you click on the wheel, the open application switch bar (on the Mac) will popup and you can then use the wheel to choose an application to bring forward. This only seems to work if the applications have not been minimized to the dock though. This may work differently in Windows.

I found the MX Revolution to be very comfortable to use. Since it is a little bit lighter weight than the MX1000, it even feels smoother and easier to move around. The textured rubber lining inside the thumb rest allows you to get a nice grip on the mouse and the physical size of the mouse is not too big or too small. It’s just right )

The MX Revolution is powered by rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. I’ve not had the chance to find out how long the mouse will work on one charge, but it appears to be equivalent to the MX1000.

This is a very nice cordless mouse that is easy to configure and works really well. I noticed no lag with my cursor or lag after my computer had been idle for an extended period. Some might think that $99.99 is a lot of money to spend on a mouse, but this one has enough features to earn that price tag.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Logitech MX Revolution Cordless Laser Mouse originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 18, 2006 at 5:11 pm.

When I reviewed PLANon’s DocuPen R700 portable scanner almost one year ago, I immediately realized how handy this device could be to a wide variety of people. Having a full page scanner that can easily stow in a gear bag was quite liberating. The only problem with the R700, was the fact that it scanned only in Black and White, and didn’t really do that great of a job. Luckily, PLANon, didn’t stop with the R700. They now have the RC800, which can scan in full 24bit color.

Hardware Specs

Four scanning modes: B/W (1bit), Grayscale (4/8bit), Standard color (12bit), Hi color (24bit)
Resolution: 100 to 400 dpi
Memory: 8mb of on-board flash memory and MicroSD slot
Rechargeable Lithium-Ion battery which is charged via the USB port
Size: 8.9 x 0.5 x 0.5 in (226 x 12 x 12 mm)
Weight: 2 oz. (54g)

Package Contents

Docupen scanner
USB cable
Leather zippered case
Driver and Manual CD
Quickstart guide

The overall size and shape of the RC800 is pretty similar to the R700. But now instead of having just one button, there are 2 side by side. One button controls power and resolution, while the other toggles between B/W and color options.

The shell is made of Blue and silver plastic. The Blue is dark enough to not be too flash for corporate use.

On the bottom of the scanner you will find the dual roller guides.

Setting the various scan modes on the RC800 is easy due to the icon panel on the left end of the scanner. There is a whole row of icons that light up when the device is powered on. At a glance you can tell if your next scan will be in color, if you have adequate memory left and how the battery is doing.

Let’s take a look at the icons from left to right. The first icon (X) will blink in Red to warn you that you’re dragging the scanner across the page a little too fast. The next 3 icons signify the color modes. The first one is for black and white mode. The next two are for color. The intersecting ring icon is for Docu-Color and the person shaped icon is for Hi-Quality color. The next 2 icons that look like dominos or dice, are for Standard resolution and High resolution scanning. The M is the status icon for memory and the icon on the far right is for battery capacity. Both will turn Red when you need to charge and / or offload scans.

To change modes, you use the two buttons in the middle of the scanner. The left button toggles between black/white, docu-color and hi-quality color modes, while the right button is for Power and toggling between standard resolution and high resolution modes.

To scan a page, you just position the scanner along the top edge of the page that you want to scan, press the power button and then roll the scanner down the page. If you roll too quickly the X icon on the will start blinking Red. I found that scanning a Black and White image is the fastest. You can quickly pull the scanner down the page without the X blinking at all. For color scanning, you will need to slow down quite a bit though.

After you complete a scan (or multiple scans), you then need to get the image out of the scanner and into your computer. You do this via a USB cable which plugs into one end of the scanner. You’ll also need to install the driver for your Mac or Windows XP computer.

The PenScanner Control app on the Mac is very simple to use. There are options to download all the images from the scanner, calibrate the scanner, erase the images in the scanner and export a selected scan as a .tiff file. Small thumbnails of the scanned images appear in the control app, making it easy to see which scans to export. Also, since the driver is a twain compliant, you can import images directly from inside applications like Photoshop.

To give you an idea of what the scans look like in their different modes, click the thumbnail images above to see the full sized scan. I did resize all of the full size images down to 1024 x 786. These scans were all from a Java for Dummies Book. From Left to Right: B/W standard rez, and Docu-color standard rez.

Now for an example of a color scan, I scanned a page from Laptop magazine December 2006 issue in Docu-color standard rez.

If all you do is scan in black and white standard mode, you can get a lot of scans stored in the RC800 before you run out of memory and need to download them to a computer. Color scans take a lot more memory. I was able to scan only 2 copies of the magazine image that you see above in Docu-color standard and hi-rez before I ran out of memory. In Hi-Quality standard and hi-rez formats I the built in memory would only accommodate 1 full page scan before running out of space.

The RC800 has 8mb of built in memory. Nope, that isn’t much when you plan to scan a lot of color images. Luckily, there’s a MicroSD flash memory slot under the right end of the scanner. Pop the flash card in there and you increase the amount of scanned pages that you can store.

The only problems that I had with this product had to do with trying to scan images in magazines and books. It’s pretty difficult to scan pages when they are not completely flat. Sometimes the RC800 would think I was finished with the scan before I had even rolled it halfway down the page. To get around that problem, I learned to scan the pages from the spine outward, instead of from the top of the page downward. Other than that issue, I have found this product easy to use and very handy. Yes, the price is pretty steep at $300. But I’m not sure there is another full page color scanner on the market that is this small and portable.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

DocuPen RC800 Handheld Color Scanner originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on November 24, 2006 at 5:00 pm.

One of the more annoying things about PC gaming is that it is hard to keep up with e-mail, instant messaging, and other background applications while a game is using the entire display. The Pertelian X2040 is an answer to that problem, in the form of an external LCD display that lets you see important information and interact with background applications like your instant messenger and Teamspeak while a full-screen game is running.

Package Contents

The review model of the Pertelian X2040 was shipped in a plain box. (It is only available online at the moment, so presumably a retail package had not yet been developed.) In addition to the LCD itself, the X2040 package included a plastic desk stand, driver CD, and velcro square.

The Display

The Pertelian X2040 LCD is a compact brick about 4 inches long, 2.5 inches high, and 3/4 inch thick. It connects to your PC with an integrated USB cable which is long enough to reach the top of a desk if your computer is sitting underneath it. The display itself shows 4 lines of 20 characters and has a bright green backlight which can be toggled on and off. With the backlight off, the display is easily readable in normal room lighting.

Software

The software for the Pertelian LCD includes both a hardware driver for Windows 2000/XP and an
application that manages the display. As it is under active development, you should probably ignore the CD in the package and download a more current version of the software from the Pertelian website. The Pertelian application sits in the system tray, running in the background to collect information and update the LCD. Clicking on the system tray icon opens a configuration panel where you can set up the display to your liking. (You can click on the screenshots below to view them at full size.)

The Pertelian application is a framework with plug-in modules to display various sorts of information on the LCD. Using keyboard shortcuts you can cycle through the available plugins or jump directly to one of them. The application ships with plugins for e-mail, instant messaging,
RSS feeds, system monitoring, Teamspeak, and more.

You operate the application using keyboard hotkeys, fully configurable to avoid potential conflicts.

The initial display shows either a welcome message, or the name of the currently playing track in your media player. (The Pertelian software supports Windows Media Player, iTunes, and Winamp.) Below that, counters show the number of waiting e-mails and instant messages. A separate page lets you tweak both the sound card and media player volume controls.

The Pertelian software includes keyboard shortcuts for media control, in case you don’t have a keyboard with dedicated buttons for that. More useful is its ability to scan a playlist, playing
snippets of each track, and its song search. The latter captures keyboard input (without requiring you to leave the game you’re running) and finds tracks as you type part of the title.

Instant messaging is another major feature of the Pertelian application. When new messages come in the display flashes, and you can read and reply to messages using the LCD and keyboard without leaving your game. When you press the appropriate hotkey, the software captures keyboard input while you type your message. It’s just like typing in a normal message window, except on the LCD, and the message is sent in the background without interrupting your game. The Pertelian software works with the three major IM platforms as well as the GAILM multi-platform client. It will also check your email, if it is on a POP3 server at least, and report new messages.

Other plugins fetch RSS feeds, weather, sports scores, and stock prices. The system information
plugin is especially detailed, with hundreds of statistics available to show.

My favorite Pertelian plugin is the Teamspeak interface. Teamspeak is a popular voice-over-IP conferencing system designed for online gaming. Since the Teamspeak window is normally hidden
while a game is running, it can sometimes be hard to tell who is talking. The Pertelian Teamspeak plugin not only shows who is connected and speaking, but also lets you browse and join channels.
(You can still use Teamspeak’s own shortcuts for this, of course.)

If you are so inclined, you can write your own plugins for the Pertelian software using the .NET framework; the specifications are available on the company’s web site, and the developers are active in their support forum.

(Updated 10/29/2006)

In October 2006 Pertelian released a software update for the X2040 with several new plugins, including an IRC client, eBay watcher, and forum watcher.

The forum watcher is actually more of a general purpose web page monitor, in that it watches the URLs you specify, notifies you when they change, and lets you open them in your browser with a keystroke. Unfortunately the wide variety of forum software out there makes it hard for any program to do much more than this; however, if your favorite forum provides per-thread feeds you could use the Pertelian RSS plugin along with this one to see the new content without leaving your game.

I can’t speak from experience about the eBay plugin as I rarely use eBay, but it has a number of features which look useful. In addition to monitoring the details of your chosen auctions on the LCD, it can also alert you with a message and flashing backlight when you are outbid or the auction is nearing its time limit. Other eBay features are apparently in development for future versions of the Pertelian software.

Finally, the IRC client is exactly what it says: it lets you connect to an IRC channel and chat on it just like you would using a Pertelian-compatible IM system. This is a relatively simple IRC client, with support for automatically joining one channel. Given the size of the display I wouldn’t recommend using it with a very active one, but for low intensity chatting this rounds out Pertelian’s messaging support nicely.

The Pertelian software, version 4, is a free update for existing X2040 owners, and is downloadable from pertelian.com.

Conclusions

External LCDs have long been a popular toy for the hardware-inclined enthusiast, but now they are starting to go mainstream. The Pertelian X2040 is not the only external display product aimed at PC gamers, but it is one of the least expensive. Its software is more interactive than most
of the competition; the ability to reply to instant messages and directly search for media with the keyboard is unique in LCD software, as far as I can tell. I also like the openness of the development specs, which should enable the display to be used with other software (and perhaps
non-Windows systems) in the future.

The Pertelian X2040 is $69.99 at ThinkGeek.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Gaming Gear

Tagged: Desktop

Pertelian X2040 originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on October 30, 2006 at 12:00 am.

Here at The Gadgeteer, we love to discover good things that come in small packages. If it’s tiny, designed well and useful, we’re as happy as geeks at a HamFest. That’s why I performed an internal happy dance when the USB Rota-Rota 4 port hub showed up in my mailbox the other day, all the way from Brando’s shop in Hong Kong. One of these days, I hope to visit Hong Kong and Brando’s shop, but until then, I will just have to settle for testing out his products.

Hardware Specs

Fully compliant with USB 2.0 specification
Backwards compatible with USB 1.1
Support data transfer rate at 1.5/12/480 Mbps
Individual port over-current protection
Dimension: 1.5×2.0×1.25in (31x48x30mm)
Weight: 43g

Package Contents

USB Rota-Rota Hub
17 inch USB extension cable

This hub is very small and compact. Not as small as the Super Mini Aluminum 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub from USB Geek that I reviewed, but this one has the advantage of not requiring an additional cable for connecting to the desktop or laptop computer.

Instead, the Rota-Rota has a fold out connector that can rotate 180 degrees.

On the back of the hub is a power connector that can be used if you intend to connect devices that require a lot of juice (more than 500mA per port). Unfortunately, a power adapter is not included with this hub. According to the package, a 5V, 2.1A adapter is required.

This is a 4 port hub. Each port can swivel 180 degrees, allowing plug in access to most USB enabled devices.

Here you see the hub connected to my 12″ Powerbook, with various flash drives and cables attached to it.

In use, the hub performed as well as other non-powered hubs that I’ve tested in the past. The only ‘issue’ that I had with this one seems to be an OS X related issue. Every time I would plug an additional USB drive, or card reader into the hub while one or more such devices were already plugged in, I would get the an error saying:

The device you removed was not properly put away.
Data might have been lost or damaged. Before you
unplug your device, you must first select its icon in
the Finder and choose Eject from the File menu.

Mac users will know this as a familiar error. It happens whenever you accidently pull a memory card out of a reader or unplug a USB drive without ejecting it first. I’m just confused that the error occurs when plugging something IN instead of UNPLUGGING it. On a PC, I didn’t notice the error.

This isn’t a hub that I would want to use as my primary hub, mostly because it is not powered and I tend to use devices that draw more than 500mA. That said, the USB Rota-Rota 4 port hub is a useful device to throw in a gear bag for those times when you might have too many devices to plug in, and not enough ports to plug them into.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Brando USB Rota-Rota Hub originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on August 10, 2006 at 2:27 pm.

If you play PC games, you probably know how important keyboard control is to many of them, especially in the real-time strategy, roleplaying, and shooter genres. But keyboards are designed for two hands, and in most games you’ll always have one hand on the mouse. The Saitek Pro Gamer Command Unit is a USB controller that aims to improve your control of keyboard-driven games with programmable action buttons located directly under your fingertips for quick access, plus a thumb-operated joystick.

The Pro Gamer Command Unit (which I will refer to as the PGCU from now on for the sake of brevity) has a total of twenty-one buttons, an analog stick, and a three-position mode switch. When you rest your hand on it, fourteen of the buttons are under your fingers, with four more on an angled row above. Two more buttons and the analog stick are positioned on an adjustable thumb cradle, and the final button is located on the palm rest under the base of your thumb. The PGCU is designed for use only with the left hand.

The mode switch allows you to select between three profiles (blue, green, and red) and the backlighting of the main keypad changes color to show its position. The keypad isn’t the only part of the PGCU that lights up; a stripe on the hand rest glows blue and a red Saitek logo is projected on the desk below your wrist. (What would a gadget be without a couple of pretty but completely unnecessary lights?)

Programming

The heart of the PGCU is its “SST” programming software for Windows 2000 and XP. If you don’t install the software, the PGCU will be recognized as a standard game controller with an analog stick and a lot of buttons. With the software, it becomes a fully programmable keyboard as well. The main programming interface is the profile editor, which lets you define actions for twenty of the buttons (#21, on the palm rest, is hard coded to shift between two sets of programming) and the thumb stick.

The screenshot above (click to see the full size image) shows the main programming view of the editor, which lets you define the unshifted “blue” profile. The “red” and “green” profiles are preloaded with setups for FPS and RTS gaming, so you can get started without having to program everything from scratch. The data view, shown below (click to see the full size image), lets you program actions for all three positions of the mode switch as well as the shifted actions for each.

Programming button actions is very flexible. You can assign any sequence of keystrokes and mouse clicks to a button, with individually adjustable delays between each event. If you program multiple events, you can set them up to fire automatically with a single press or only while you hold the button down. You can also program separate actions for pressing, holding, and releasing a button. Whatever you can think of making a keyboard do, the PGCU software can probably handle it. Finally, if you leave the programming for a key blank, it is passed through to the game as a joystick button. (It’s your choice whether you want to program the PGCU to work with the game’s default controls, or bind the game’s controls to the PGCU.)

The thumbstick is an ordinary 2-axis analog controller, so if your game supports joystick motion you can leave it unprogrammed. But you can also set it — separately for each axis — to send mouse movements or keystrokes. You can even define bands with different actions. For example, if your game has one key for “walk” and another for “run”, you could set the joystick to send the “walk” keystroke when you press it halfway up and the “run” key when you push it all the way.

Once you’ve saved a custom profile, it appears in a system tray menu whenever the PGCU is plugged in. The software does not switch profiles automatically; you have to explicitly load the one you one from the menu when you want to change the PGCU’s programming.

The Competition

Before I received the PCGU I had used a Nostromo Speedpad N52 for over a year. The N52 is very similar in its overall design but it has a directional pad instead of the thumbstick, a scroll wheel, and five fewer buttons.

I like the PGCU’s layout better for a number of reasons. The analog stick and extra row of keys are, of course, a nice bonus, but in addition to that there are a few design differences I like. One is that the key layout is closer to that of a real keyboard, and in practice is easier to use. The leftmost column, especially, is a big improvement since you can actually reach all three buttons with your pinkie. The staggered main keys are also a bit more natural to use than the N52’s vertical columns.

I also like the PGCU’s shift key better than the equivalent function on the N52. The N52 actually has three shift states, and you can program any key to activate or toggle them. While this seems like it would be more flexible than the PGCU’s single shift and three-way mode switch, in practice I didn’t find it as useful as it might seem. In most games, I couldn’t afford to give up more than one key for shifting. More often than not the only one that made sense was the flat “space bar” under the directional pad, and that made it impossible to move and use a shifted key at the same time.

The PGCU’s programming capabilities are a bit more flexible than those of the N52. I haven’t used the more advanced options of the PGCU (separate press and release actions, for example) yet but it’s nice to know that the option is there. One difference I did notice immediately is that the PGCU’s software allows modifier combinations to be programmed as one key. In the N52’s profiler, if you want to send an Alt, Control, or Shift key combo you have to define a macro which contains the presses and releases of both keys; this has the side effect that there is no way to hold down modified keys programmed on a single button, not to mention being annoying to program for certain games that use a lot of them.

On the other hand, one feature of the N52’s software that I wish the PGCU had is the ability to automatically switch profiles when you start a game. It’s not a huge inconvenience to use the system tray menu to switch profiles, but it would be a nice feature for Saitek to add in the future.

Another feature of the N52 that the PGCU lacks is official Macintosh support; the N52 ships with profiling software for Mac OS X. Mac gamers need not despair, however, since the PGCU (and for that matter, the N52) works with ControllerMate, a $15 shareware application which is far more flexible and powerful than the Saitek or Nostromo profilers. It may also work with other similar software such as GamePad Companion or USB Overdrive, but I haven’t tried those. As such, I don’t consider the lack of Mac drivers for the PGCU to be a significant disadvantage.

In Use

I primarily play role-playing games, so I went straight for the profile editor and didn’t bother with the pre-defined FPS and RTS key sets. I am of the opinion that a secondary controller like the PGCU is especially effective for RPGs, because so many of them use the entire top row of the keyboard as an assignable action bar. Using an entire row of keys with one hand is inconvenient at best, especially when you also need to use W, A, S, and D for movement. It’s even worse in some skill-heavy games where it is not uncommon to have multiple action bars using Shift, Control, Alt, and possibly even combinations of those. World of Warcraft is a good example of this; in WoW it isn’t uncommon to have thirty or forty action buttons available, even with assistance from in-game macros and user interface modifications. If you use the PGCU’s thumbstick for movement, you can assign two (or possibly three or four, if you set up the in-game key assignments appropriately) full action bars to the main pad while leaving a few keys free for other things.

The PGCU is useful for RPGs with less-complicated control schemes as well. For example, Guild Wars has only eight action buttons, and it’s possible to define a useful profile for it without even using the shift button. Yet the PGCU still makes it easier to play because everything is right there with minimal finger motion.

I have also been playing EVE Online lately, and it highlights some of the differences between the PGCU and the N52 I used to use. EVE is primarily mouse-driven, and it does not allow assignment of unmodified keys. Other than the function keys (which serve essentially the same purpose as the action bar in more traditional RPGs) every keyboard command in EVE requires a Shift, Alt, or Control combo. This was easier to program on the PGCU, as I described earlier, and there were a couple of keys I couldn’t program at all on the N52 because they must be held down. The PGCU’s analog stick also comes in handy for EVE; I set it to work as a mouse, then defined the buttons next to it as right and left click, so if need be I can poke around the menus one-handed. (I wouldn’t recommend trying this in combat, of course.)

One potential disadvantage of a supplemental controller like PGCU is that you have to take your hand off it to type into a text chat window. But you have to do the same with your mouse hand too, and the overall reduction in movement during normal game play far outweighs this, at least for me and my aching carpal tunnels. Even with only a normal keyboard, text chat can be pretty inconvenient if you’re trying to do other things at the same time.

Conclusions

I quite like the Saitek Pro Gamer Command Unit. I have been using controllers of this type for a couple of years now — first the Microsoft Strategic Commander, then the Belkin Nostromo N52 — so I was already convinced of its general usefulness. I like the PGCU’s design and programming capabilities, even the somewhat oddly-placed shift key. If you’re looking for this type of controller the PGCU is well worth considering, and I think it compares very favorably to the N52.

If you have never used this kind of controller, I would recommend the PGCU with some reservations. It seems to me that this sort of thing is an acquired taste, and may take some getting used to. If you are used to using an ordinary keyboard, the utility of an extra keyboard controller may not be immediately obvious, especially compared to simply replacing your keyboard with one of the gaming-oriented models available now. Still, for an average price of under $40 online, trying the PGCU shouldn’t hurt your wallet too much. If you want to reduce hand motion because of RSI, or if you are sick of how many key combos your favorite game makes you use, I’d recommend giving it a try to see how you like it.

The Saitek Pro Gamer Command Unit is available from many retailers of computer accessories, or direct from Saitek for $39.99.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Keyboard

Saitek Pro Gamer Command Unit originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 24, 2006 at 3:06 am.

About a month ago I decided that I wanted to build a MCE PC. I
had built one for my dad out of an old PC we had laying around,
adding two HDTV tuners and a 7.1 audio card, and was so impressed
with it that I set out to build my own. Originally I started
specing it together to build from scratch, but I found it was
cheaper to buy the PC pre-built. Included with my order was a 19″
Widescreen LCD, perfect for displaying some high-def TV.

The display was a Chimei CMV 938D, a 1440×900 display with
DVI/D-SUB and built-in speakers. I did some searching on Google for
it, but didn’t really find anything about it other than specs. This
kinda worried me, but I figured if the panel wasn’t good enough I
could send it back. The specifications are as follows:

Hardware Specs:

Input: D-Sub & DVI-D
Pixel Pitch: 0.285 mm
Resolution: 1440 x 900
Brightness: 330 cd/m2
Contrast Ratio: 600:1
Viewing Angle: 160º H/140ºV
Response Time 8 ms
Power: 100~240V
Weight: 4.5 kg (inc. Stand)
Speakers: 2.5W x 2
Dimensions: 464x380x192 mm
Power Consumption: 60 W
Power Saving State: 2 W
Security Kensington Lock
Colour: Silver/Black

When I received it and set it up, I was amazed!! The pictures
seriously do not do this display justice.

The display was bright, had good viewing angles, and was an
excellent size.

The viewing angles on this display aren’t extraordinary, but
they are perfectly fine for my uses. Again, the photos show them as
being worse than they really are. It is really hard to get good
pictures of an LCD!

The display connects to your PC either via a DVI-D connection or
D-SUB (VGA) connection. Both a DVI and D-SUB cable are included in
the box which is nice.

The display has built-in speakers that are fine for Windows
sounds, but not really anything else. A 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable
is included to connect it to your PC. Sorry about the dust. The
flash really makes it look so dirty

On the right side there are 6 silver buttons for controlling the
monitor settings. They are behind the display, so you can’t see
them from the front. I think that’s a nice touch, as it gives the
display a cleaner look.

At the back of the display you have a label with the serial
number, power ratings and a heap of logos. On top there are some
vents for expelling heat.

My only real gripe with this display is not even related to the
screen. Its the power light. The power light is green, and it is
bright enough to burn a hole in your retinas. With all of the
lights off, the light just beams at you. Lucky it doesn’t flash, or
it would induce seizures…..

I cut a small piece of masking tape to cover the light, so its
not a problem anymore. I know it seems picky, but it does get quite
annoying….for me anyway…

Now my main use for this display is really as a TV. My MCE PC
has dual HDTV tuners in it, so the 1440×900 res is very welcome.
Not quite the 1920×1080 needed for true HD, but damn close!! MCE
looks fantastic on this display, as does both SD and HD
broadcasts. HD is where it truly shines, with the picture being
razor sharp and perfectly clear.

And some HD goodness

I also do a bit of gaming on my PC, and this display, with its
8ms response time, handles it VERY well.

Now I didn’t purchase this display separately, but I did go
looking to see what the prices on it were. I was amazed to find how
incredibly cheap it was! The best price I found for it here in
Australia was AU$289 (~US$216) which is unbelievable for a 19″ LCD,
let alone a widescreen one. I would expect to get a 17″ for that
price!

Overall I am very happy with this display. The picture is
absolutely wonderful, and it is outstanding value for anybody
looking to upgrade either their CRT or LCD monitor to something
larger. I would whole-heartedly recommend this display to
anyone!

Price: AU$289 (~US$216)

Filed in categories: Audio, Video, TV Gear

Tagged: A/V, Audio, Desktop, Device, Video

Chimei CMV 938D 19 inch Widescreen LCD originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on July 10, 2006 at 2:04 pm.

For the longest time, I was the person that didn’t back up any of the files
stored on my computer. Important emails, Money files, passwords, pictures, MP3s,
programs I had paid for, Word documents, Excel Spreadsheets, years and years
worth of ranch data and documents, reviews I had written – I was blissfully
ignorant about what the consequences would be should my hard drive ever fail. I
was the person that thought that it would never happen to me, and
I was the person that lost everything when my computer spontaneously
combusted one afternoon in 2001.

It’s kind of funny when I look back now, I was always so careful about
backing up my PDA’s information; yet I was completely negligent with the files
that really mattered – the ones on my PC that fed the data kept on my PDA. It
took me many (many!!) months to rebuild from scratch, and to this day I
still regret the loss of that irreplaceable information. You wouldn’t believe
how often I’ll think of some document that I need – and that I think I have on my computer…but when I go search for it I realize that it was pre-crash
data that I wasn’t able to replicate. After that one disastrous experience I
became a true believer in using external hard drives to store my
backed-up data.

However, the possibility of a future computer crash is not the only reason I
now depend on external hard drives. Because these external drives easily connect
to almost any computer with a USB or FireWire port, I now have the ability to
move large amounts of data between one computer and another. This makes sharing
information between computers a cinch. In my home office, I depend on a

400GB Seagate External Hard Drive for most of my backup needs, but this
larger sized device is not at all practical when I need to take my data with me
on the road. For that, I have come to depend on portable external hard
drives.

In the last few years it has become quite common to see portable hard drives
with memory amounts  up to 100GB or more that can easily fit in a laptop
bag’s pocket. Today I am going to take a look at the
Maxtor
OneTouch III,
Mini Edition, a portable drive that not only allows the user to carry up to
100GB with them at all times, it also provides the encryption of said data while
empowering the user with a few other conveniences.

The Maxtor Mini Edition easily lives up to its name, measuring 5.2"
tall x 3.5" wide x 0.8" thick, and weighing just 7.3 ounces. Available in 60GB
or 100GB versions, the hard drive is clad in a matte silver metal case with
black rubberized plastic sides. Although it is quite light, the device feels
well made and does not creak or flex when its case is torqued. Included in the
box are the drive, a USB Y-cable, a quick start guide, and all of the necessary
software preloaded on the drive itself.

(front of Maxtor)

(back of Maxtor)

The back of the drive has, from left to right, ports for the optional
Maxtor OneTouch Power
Adapter and the mini USB port for the USB Y-cable.

Other than plugging in the USB Y-cable, the only other non-computer-based
interaction the user will have with the hard drive is through the button on the
left front. This button will glow white when the drive is powered, blink white
when the disk is being accessed, and when pushed the button will commence a user
defined or default process which we’ll discuss in detail shortly.

The drive is powered by plugging the USB Y-cable into either one or two USB
ports. One USB port is all that was needed to power it from my PC, but in the
event that both USB ports aren’t enough, the optional power adapter
should be purchased.

The Mini Edition is small enough to take along, but it is also conveniently
sized for desktop use.

Specifications

The first time the Maxtor OneTouch III Mini Edition is plugged into the host
computer, it will need to install its software. This is simply a process of
clicking the appropriate button and letting the drive do its thing.

Once installed, the Maxtor will be represented as a Hard Disk drive under "My
Computer".

A new "M" icon will be installed in the system tray.

Once installed, the Maxtor’s files may be accessed from the desktop. The user
can simply drag & drop the files to copy…

…or the user can utilize the newly installed software. This software is
always accessible by right clicking and selecting "Backup Settings" from the
newly installed "M" icon in the system tray.

There are six icons on the left side that allow the use to manage the
Maxtor’s settings. I won’t write a full user’s manual in this review, but I will
try to touch upon most if not all of the features…

The Home setting displays the serial number, memory and firmware information
directly pertaining to the Mini Edition.

From this screen it is also possible to run a diagnostics test on the drive.

The Settings button allows the user to customize the power setting…

…which tells the drive when to go into "power saving mode" after a period
of inactivity.

Next it is possible to customize the setting for the lone button on the
exterior of the case. The button can be set to open the application of choice,
synchronize folders using Sync, or to do the Maxtor OneTouch Backup of the
designated files.

The last setting is security. The owner may set a password and choose a
secret question that will reveal the password should it be forgotten. After the
password has been set, it must be entered in order to access the contents of the
the drive anytime the drive is powered.

The Backup button shows when the drive is set for Automatic Backups or not,
and at what time they are scheduled. Any and all days of the week may be chosen
as well as any time during the day. I have mine set for daily at 3am.

The user can select the drive, folder, or subfolders that are to be included
in backups; everything included in the selected file will be copied.

Once the initial settings are made, a backup can be performed. The first one
will always take the longest, future backups will be quicker as they will only
add information not previously included.

One to ten Historical Versions may be kept on the drive, allowing the user to
chose a particular date’s version should it be needed.

The Restore button allows the restoration of a particular historical backup
or the most recently backup files. This process may also be done manually by
going into the drive’s backup folder and selecting the particular file needed.

The Sync button allows the user to set a direct synchronization between a
folder on the external drive and a folder on the computer. This process can be
customized to use the one-touch button on the drive.

The Rollback button allows the user to set automatic restore points for their
system, create a restore point of the current system, and restore their system
to a previous state.

Worth noting are the colors of the "M" icon in the system tray. When a backup
has performed successfully, the icon will glow green.

When a backup has failed for whatever reason, the icon will glow red. I am
not entirely sure why this particular backup failed – it probably has something
to do with the my trying to do an Outlook file backup while using Outlook. ;0)

Because the Maxtor OneTouch III Mini Edition is USB driven, it will work with
any computer that has an available USB port, Mac or PC. However, the installed
software will only properly function with a Windows PC running 2000 Professional
or XP; this will most likely be seen as a major caveat for Mac users.

No backup device testing would be complete without some timing tests, so here
are a few to give an idea of transfer times:

Moving a 34GB file with 17 full length movies from my PC to the Mini Edition
took 50 minutes and 54 seconds.

Moving a 41.5MB Music file from my PC to the Mini Edition took less than 5
seconds.

I had a completely different summary in mind but the writing of this review
took a rather ugly twist this afternoon, which is why it is being posted at
nearly midnight instead of around 3 pm as I had intended. This review was
complete and ready for posting when an unrelated process caused my computer to
lock up and all of my open programs quit responding. Yes, I had been hitting
control + save all through the review writing process, even up to the moment
when my computer froze; but after shutting my computer down and restarting, I
found that the entire review was completely gone! All that was left was a
FrontPage document in the correct folder with the correct title. Urgh!!

I think my curses could be heard all the way to the edges of San Angelo;
seriously.

How ironic was it that I was writing a review on a backup device? How
cool was it that during the review I had hit the OneTouch button – which
had preserved all of my photos and roughly half of my text? I had prior
commitments that I had to fulfill between 3 and 9 tonight, but coming home and
knowing that I had a running start made redoing this review bearable. I have a
feeling that hitting the OneTouch button may become a compulsive habit while
writing reviews in the future…thank you Maxtor!

If you have been living dangerously by not backing up your important data,
please learn from my mistakes and get an external hard drive. Computers are
fallible, and they will crash at the most inopportune and inconvenient times.
Don’t take the chance of losing your irreplaceable photos, audio recordings and
documents. Get off the fence and start backing up your data!

The Maxtor OneTouch III Mini Edition 60GB retails for $149.95, and the 100GB
version for $199.95. The
Maxtor OneTouch Power
Adapter is available for $29.95.

You can

read the FAQ here; this Maxtor hard drive comes with a 1-year limited
warranty.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Maxtor OneTouch III Mini Edition originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on June 9, 2006 at 9:01 pm.

USB Flash based memory drives come in so many shapes and styles these days,
it’s almost hard to remember the time when every computer didn’t have a USB port
and a floppy disk was the most convenient way to transfer files between
computers. Considering that USB ports are the only type port common to
every laptop and desktop anymore, and that finding a PCMCIA slots on both is
no longer a given, having and using a USB based flash memory device makes sense.
Today we’ll take a look at one of the most unique and most convenient USB flash
memory drives I have yet seen, the
Walletex

Wallet Flash.

Measuring exactly 3.4" long from the tip of the USB plug to the card’s other
end x 2.13" wide x 0.07" thick, the Wallet Flash looks like a slightly thicker,
oddly shaped credit card. Touted as being the "World’s slimmest USB device", I
would have to say that it’s probably true since the next slimmest flash
drive I’ve reviewed (the
StealthSurfer)
was 0.1" without it’s plastic case; although the overall size of the
StealthSurfer was much smaller. Look at me getting off track! Anyway…

The USB connector is double-sided, meaning that the card will plug into a USB
port from either direction – whichever works better for the user’s particular
setup.

Specifications
Capacity and Performance: 64MB, 128MB, 256MB, 512MB, 1GB, 2GB
USB Interfaced: USB 2.0, USB 1.1 Compatible
Data Retention: Up to ten years
OS Support: Win XP, Win 2000, Windows ME, Win98/Win98SE (download
driver here), Linux 2.4 and above, MAC OS 9.0 and higher
Connector: Double sided USB connector
LED Indicator: Functional green LED indicator
Water Resistance: Water Proof

There are also some further customizations which can be added when large
quantities are ordered…
Surface Printing: Customized or standard
Magnetic Stripe: Optional
Customized Photo: Optional
Auto-Run and Non-Erasable Files: Optional

Here is the interior of my wallet. Can you spot the USB Flash card?

Okay, maybe the "128MB" caption gave it away. But otherwise there is almost
no difference between this memory device and the typical credit card. What that
means to the user is that this is a memory card with few if any caveats – it
won’t fall off a keyring, it won’t get confiscated at the airport, it is easy to
store in something that a person will just about never forget – their wallet.

Using the Wallet Flash is very easy – it simply plugs into an available USB
port and is immediately shown as removable storage.

Transferring files
between a desktop computer and a laptop has never been easier, and the ability
to flip the card in whatever direction is necessary to plug it in makes using
the Wallet Flash quite convenient. Notice the light green LED between the words
"Wallet" and "Flash" which will blink when the card is being accessed.

On the website, the
card is touted as being "strong and robust", its resistance to water is even
shown in a picture where one is sitting in a glass of water. I suppose that
property will come in handy on those occasions when some guy accidentally sends
his wallet through the washer. Not that any of our readers would ever do
that…

My bigger concern would be how well the card does in extreme heat –
like when a wallet is left sitting in a car on a summer afternoon, or how well
the card will hold up over time to the pressure of being curved against some
guy’s bum, day after day. According to the Walletex site, the Wallet Flash is
"temperature tolerant" and it’s "unaffected by heat such as being left on a
dashboard." The card does have a slight bit of flex, so I think it would
probably do all right in the typical guy’s wallet.

Surprisingly enough, prices for larger capacity cards are fairly reasonable:
64MB is $16.49, 128MB is $19.99, 256MB is $27.99, 512MB is $42.99, 1GB is $64.99
and 2GB is $119.99. If you have been looking for a fool-proof method to always
have remember a USB based flash memory device, then this may be your answer.
Perfect for anyone with an empty credit card slot in their wallet, the Walletex
Wallet Flash is a rugged and dependable method to transfer files between
computers. If you have been looking for a customer give-away that won’t be
thrown away, or a business card that really makes a statement, bulk ordering is
available.

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear, Laptops and Gear, Miscellaneous, Wallets

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

Walletex Wallet Flash 128MB Flash Drive originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on April 25, 2006 at 11:15 pm.

There seems to be no shortage of memory card readers that will handle Compact
Flash and SD/MMC. But when a few of the more specialized memory cards get thrown
in the mix, buying the right reader can get a little trickier. Today I am going
to take a look at the USB Brando

32-in-1 Card Reader Combo, a reader that accepts just about every memory
card on the market today.

Specifications:
32-in-1 CARD READER/WRITER built-in USB 2.0 3-port HUB
Self powered using Universal Serial Bus (USB)
USB 2.0 transfer rate up to 480 Mbps, backward USB 1.1 transfer rate up to
12Mbps
Plug & Play and Hot Swapping support
Power supply: DC + 5 volts supplied by USB port
Operating temperature: 0 ~ 70C degree
Durability:10,000 cycles of insertion/removal of each USB port and CARD READER
slot.

Included in the package is the card reader, a mini-USB to USB 2.0 cable, a
user guide and a Windows 98Se driver disk. Composed of milky-white plastic and
measuring 3.36" tall x 2.76" wide x 0.62" thick, the 32-in-1 looks suspiciously
similar to a slim luminescent night light that I used to own. This is largely
due to the 1.9" tall x 2.27" wide screen that fills with a soft blue light when
the reader is plugged into a host computer’s USB port.

Under the large night-light on the front of the reader are five circles
printed with a legend explaining the row of LED lights below.

When a card is plugged in one of the four slots on the right side of the
reader, the corresponding LED will glow green, as will the LEDs for ports one
through three when a USB cable is connected.

On the right side of the reader are are four card slots.
Slot one accepts CF type I, CF type II, CF-ultra II,
Micro Drive, CF-pro, CF pro II, CF Extreme, CF Extreme III and CF-PSP II. Slot
two accepts MS, MS (Magic Gate), MS-Pro (Magic Gate) and HS-MS-Pro (Magic Gate).
With an adapter, Slot two can accept MS-Duo, MS-Duo (Magic Gate), MS-Pro-Duo
(Magic Gate) and HS-MS-Pro-Duo (Magic Gate). Slot three accepts SD, SD-ultra,
SDC, SD-Pro, SD-ultra II, MMC, HS-MMC, MMC Pro, MMC Plus, RS-MMC, and with an
adapter it will accept Mini SD and T-Flash. Slot four accepts SM, xD and xD (M).

Quite a few of the really tiny new card formats use either a Memory Stick or
an SD card adapter, which should be kept with this card reader so that they can
be used in tandem when needed.

The left side of the reader has three USB ports. These ports may either be
used as a hub for powering or connecting various peripherals, or they may be
used to read flash-based USB memory devices.

The mini-USB cable plugs into the top of the reader, and there is also a tiny
jack (AC Adapter is not included) if additional power is needed.

One of the special features of this reader is that it touted as being quite
speedy. When most people read "USB 2.0 transfer rate up to 480 Mbps, backward USB 1.1 transfer rate up to
12Mbps" in the specifications, it won’t mean a thing to them, so here is a real
world example. I chose a 556MB movie file from my computer and transferred it to
a San Disk Ultra II 2.0GB SD card docked in this reader; it took one minute and
nine seconds. To compare, I transferred the same movie from my computer to the
same memory card docked in the

Atech iDuo, my usual card reader. The iDuo took one minute and 26 seconds.
On a larger file, or when there are many files being transferred at once, this
speed difference should be even more noticeable.

The compact size of the 32-in-1 Card Reader and its built-in three port USB
hub feature makes this a convenient laptop gadget. If you have been looking for
a slim card reader that can handle just about every memory card format
available, then you might want to take a look at the
USB Brando

32-in-1 Card Reader Combo. Its night light feature will be an extra bonus
when traveling. ;0)

Filed in categories: Desktop Computer Gear

Tagged: Desktop, Laptop

USB Brando 32-in-1 Card Reader Combo originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on February 28, 2006 at 6:35 am.