I have the older serial version of the e/x Carchip. But to date have had very few issues (the client crashed ONCE losing a weeks data, so I save after downloading and before analysing now).

I am somewhat disappointed that the CAN protocol is only supported with the latest hardware, no Fireware upgrade possible on the non-USB models.

JP

draggos wrote:

Is this device capable of recording data related to fuel consumption?
I would be interesting if it would enable correlation analysis of speed, acceleration and fuel consumption (miles/gallon or litres/km).

No. As most vehicle computers don’t directly measure fuel consumption, the carchip can’t collect that data. By entering refill amounts it will calculate general fuel economy.

I bought my Carchip E/X off E-Bay new. I was interested in its ability to pull diagnostic trouble codes and secondarily its function as a trip datalogger. Installing the software was simple. I even downloaded the update from the Davis Instruments web site. Connecting the chip to my vehicle was simple.
After downloading the chip data to my computer the trip info was understandable but there wasn’t any diagnostic trouble code data. As my vehicle had its check engine light on there certainly would be a trouble code.

After several e-mail conversations with Davis Instuments, it was determined I had a defective carchip.

After receiving a replacement a few weeks later, I recognized it wasn’t an E/X model. So via phone conversation with Davis Instruments, I was instructed to return the chip when I received a replacement E/X.

Well I now have a fully functional carchip E/X. But as it states in the product info from Davis Instruments, the chip won’t pull freeze frame data from every vehicle that it can pull diagnostic trouble codes from.

Considering the carchip uses multiple protocols, that makes it easy to use on many types of vehicles. You’d pay a bit more to get that in a generic scan tools.

So I’d say that overall with the carchips limitations and capabilities, your getting what you paid for.

But if you have carchip problems as I did, Davis Instruments will eventually make it right.

I had an email conversation with the company and he gave me a really good no-BS answer.
Non US cars may have the plug (mine does) but the pin layout and communications protocol may be different..

Real pity..

Their support is great though

I agree that it would be a valuable tool if there were a program written for the Palm (or PPC for that matter) that could interact with the CarChip while it was gathering data. I believe that Davis is monitoring this board, so perhaps they might implement the idea in a future version – which would be very cool. Great idea!

Judie :0)

Thank you for this review! I was always wondering what people thought about this device.

It would be very nice if there was a Palm interface to CarChip too.

Do you have any contacts with the CarChip developers, Judie?

Some ways to implement this are:

- Add a Bluetooth interface to the CarChip module so it can communicate wirelessly with any Bluetooth enabled Palm OS powered device, like the Tungsten T series. Then have a program on the Palm that shows the same information as on the PC, but in real time. I would really like this!!!

- Same as above, except use a serial connector to the Palm instead of a wireless one.

- Add an SD Card interface to CarChip. When you are ready to look at the results, remove the SD card from CarChip and insert it into the SD card slot on your Palm. This will not be in real time, but is very mobile.

It’s hard to tell in the pictures, but that cap is tucked up so far out of the way that it isn’t even an issue when it is hanging down.

Yes, it can be converted to use metric. That is all in the desktop software.

Judie :0)

Also does the software allow you to use metric instead of MPH etc?

Originally posted by Judie
[B]Richard – Thanks for clarifying the code information.

One of our ranch trucks is a 95 Toyota that gets a check engine light every now and then. I take it to the mechanic expecting the worst, and he trips it, saying everything is okay. Of course, the 200K+ miles and the loads of coliche dust in all the nooks and crannies may have something to do with it, but otherwise the truck is in good condition. I sure wish that the CarChip would work on that particular vehicle.

aybara – this should definitely clarify whether your wife is hard braking or not – and you will have real data if anyone tries to tell you otherwise.

Judie :0) [/B]

When OBDII was designed and implemented the O.E. manufacturers incorporated certain “hidden” triggers that would trip the light. There are several things that can cause this even on your pre-OBDII Toyota pickup. It can be simply mileage and Toyota programmed the light to come on to get checked.

It could be misfires threshold exceeded, slow 0xygen Sensor, bad wire a whole gambit of things.

I’d simply recommend that your mechanic inform you the next time it occurs as to what specific code it is and what it “points” too. And be certain to perform routine and non-routine maintenance. Your pickup should have the Oxygen Sensor changed at least once every 60K miles and more under those dusty West Texas conditions etc. Refer to the owner’s manual and your local mechanic for the specifics….and I’ll try and keep On Topic more within this thread.

Originally posted by aybara
[B]1997 Saturn SL1.

The first replacement came at 90,000 miles (in my opinion VERY good). However, the warping became apparent at about 60,000 and they just ‘machined’ the warp out of them. At 90k, there wasn’t enough left to grind out.

The car is now at 110,000k miles and the warping is already starting again.

They still claim lots of hard braking is the problem. I claim that there is something else wrong. [/B]

Ok, 60K for the warping and 90K for the replacement is pretty good and probably better than most. So assuming that the vehicle now has 20,000 miles on it since the replacement rotors were installed then there are several factors as to why you and your wife may now be noticing “warping”. The other compenents in the front end have worn and will have much more slop in them and this will amplify the warpage back to the driver. This is somewhat normal.

Depending upon the other components that were changed or replaced when the rotors were replaced – if they did not replace the other brake hardware and caliper assemblies these older “used” components could accelerate a warpage of the rotors.

Other factors that will cause warpage – xtreme heating caused by hard braking followed by a sudden cooling of the brake rotor. If the first set of disc pads went 60K then this is not an indication of bad driving habits. To have to replace the rotors at 90K is also not an indication of bad driving habits.

It is also possible that the rear brakes – if they haven’t been replaced or the parking brake segement hasn’t been properly maintained – which is all to often overlooked when doing a brake job – then the front’s might be handling more of the braking load then originally designed. This can be caused by several factors including shock absorbers or struts that have weakened over time.

There are qualified service facilities that actually use a floor mounted brake analysis machine that can determine the percentage of braking being applied as part of their diagnosis for performing a brake job.

Dealerships typically don’t have this equipment available although I hate to make that generic statement. You’ll have to check.

I’d suggest reviewing your repair order for when the rotors were originally replaced at 90K and seeing what other brake related components were changed at that time. IMHO – the calipers should have been replaced or rebuildt at that time and if they weren’t then the hydraulic components should have been replaced. If they weren’t this will cause a misalignment of the brake piston and thus the brake pad where it contacts the rotor and cause premature failure of the rotor (warping) and wearing of the disc pads themselves.

Check it an see….

One of our ranch trucks is a 95 Toyota that gets a check engine light every now and then. I take it to the mechanic expecting the worst, and he trips it, saying everything is okay. Of course, the 200K+ miles and the loads of coliche dust in all the nooks and crannies may have something to do with it, but otherwise the truck is in good condition. I sure wish that the CarChip would work on that particular vehicle.

aybara – this should definitely clarify whether your wife is hard braking or not – and you will have real data if anyone tries to tell you otherwise.

Judie :0)

The first replacement came at 90,000 miles (in my opinion VERY good). However, the warping became apparent at about 60,000 and they just ‘machined’ the warp out of them. At 90k, there wasn’t enough left to grind out.

The car is now at 110,000k miles and the warping is already starting again.

They still claim lots of hard braking is the problem. I claim that there is something else wrong.

So don’t rush out to buy this to become the corner mechanic. And typically with OBDII systems you will get multiple codes and not just one when the on-board computer decides to trigger the light. The codes that are used in OBDII also are not stored in any order of priority other than by it’s number.

It is however a very good device for capturing the data as described by Judie’s review.

Aybara – since I’m in the business and ASE certified independent service/manufacturer – what kinda car is your wife driving and what mileage was enjoyed up to the rotor replacement?

I am going to buy one of these for my wife’s car.

Twice we have had to have the rotors for her car brakes replaced TWICE. Both times they were VERY expensive. The dealer claims it is due to driving habits and her constant hard braking is causing them to warp and wear unevenly.

She swears that she is not driving like that, and when I am riding with her I would agree.

This would give us some concrete information for the dealer. A definite must.